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SEEING THE WEST 

SUGGESTIONS FOR THE 
WESTBOUND TRAVELLER 




The Yosemite Valley 



Seeing the West 

Suggestions for 

the Westbound 

Traveller 



By 
K. E. M. Dumbell 



M 




Frontispiece 



Garden City New York 

Doubleday, Page & Company 

1920 



rsq6 



COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION 
INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN 

COPTKIGHT, 191 4, BY JAMES POTT & COMPANY 

;tP 20 i'J20 



©CI.A576484 



**/ knew it would call, or soon or late, as 
it calls the whirring wings, 
Ifs the olden lure, ifs the golden lure, 
ifs the lure of the timeless things,^* 

R. W. Service. 



AUTHOR'S NOTE 

The author begs to acknowledge, with 
thanks, the courtesy of the publishers 
and others named below for their kindness 
in granting her permission to use the ex- 
tracts from their publications incorporated 
in this book: 

The Century Company, 

Messrs. Barse & Hopkins, 

The American Forestry Association, 

The U. S. Department of the Interior. 

The Western Guidebook Company, 

Mr. George Perkins Merrill, 

The Western chambers of commerce, and 
the various railroads. 

The extracts from Mr. John Muir and 
Mr. J. G. Percival are published by per- 
mission of, and by special arrangement 
with, Messrs. Houghton Mifflin Company, 
publishers of their works. 

vu 



viii AUTHOR'S NOTE 

To Mr. Robert Sterling Yard, Executive 
Secretary of the National Parks Associa- 
tion, especial thanks are extended for his 
interest and assistance and the permission 
to quote freely from his most valuable 
book, "The Book of National Parks." 



CONTENTS 

PART ONE 

The Southern Rockies 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. The Rocky Mountain Na- 
tional Park 3 

II. Colorado Spring, and Pike's 

Peak 10 

ni. Salt Lake City and the Zion 

National Park .... 17 

PART TWO 

The Northern Rockies 

I. The Canadian Rockies . . 29 
II. Glacier National Park and 
the Yellowstone National 
Park 36 

ix 



CONTENTS 

PART THREE 

The Northwest 



CHAPTER 

I. Alaska and Crater Lake Na- 


PAGE 




tional Park 


59 


il. 


Mount Rainier National Park 


72 


III. 


Lake Chelan and the Columbia 






River Region .... 


80 




PART FOUR 






California 




I. 


Northern California 


95 


II. 


Central California .... 


106 


III. 


San Francisco and Environs . 


124 


IV. 


Southern California 

PART FIVE 

The Southwest 


143 



I. The Grand Canyon . . . 163 
II. Historic Places in New Mexico 

and Arizona ... .174 

Reference Books 197 

Index 201 



INTRODUCTION 

To YOU who have travelled in our great 
American West this book may serve not 
only as a reminder of what you saw, but 
also as a lure to draw you back to the glor- 
ious regions which, perhaps, you were obliged 
to neglect before. One, two, or three trips 
would fall far short of showing you all your 
country has to offer, unless you were for- 
tunate enough to make the period of each 
visit cover many months. 

The average American citizen has only a 
hazy knowledge of what he possesses in his 
national playgrounds. The area alone is 
stupendous. We have set aside, for our 
pleasure and amusement, nearly eleven 
THOUSAND SQUARE MILES of national parks. 

It is your privilege to become a member 
of the National Parks Association if you so 
wish; through this interesting channel you 

xi 



xii INTRODUCTION 

can learn in detail the particular charms of 
each park. 

If these playgrounds are ever connected 
by automobile highways, as we hope they 
will be some day, there will be in this coun- 
try a region for sightseeing tours as the 
world has not yet dreamed of. 

We have thought serious thoughts, and 
done serious things, for some time past*; 
now the reaction has set in and play we 
must and will. 

In one park alone, within easy reach, 
close to Denver, "The Gateway to the 
Rockies," you may find 51 moimtains hav- 
ing an altitude of more than 10,000 feet, 
mountain streams, mountain lakes, big 
game, etc., etc., indefinitely. Then go on to 
Mount Rainier National Park in Washing- 
ton, or Glacier Park in Montana, where 
await you sights that fairly stagger even 
those who think they are familiar with 
mountain scenery, glaciers, etc. 

When weary of ascents, or seeking other 
sights, where, in what part of the world, 
can you find anything to compare with 



INTRODUCTION xiii 

the Grand Canyon of Arizona? Here 
your descent is one mile! No foreign pic- 
ture gallery can give you such pictures as 
you will get here, for it has not been given 
to man to depict such things; Kipling's 
"ten-league canvas with brushes of comets' 
hair" would be necessary! 

Pass a night on the floor of this canyon, 
and choose the time of full moon for it; 
you have never had such an experience, nor 
could you have elsewhere. If you are 
fortunate enough to have unlimited time, 
do not leave El Tovar until you have seen 
one superb storm, it will stretch your very 
soul. This place draws so tremendously 
upon the emotions that after it you will 
want — what.^ I can tell you what, the 
perfect peace of the Yosemite Valley, for 
quiet, intimate beauty, ahead of any spot 
on this continent. Here enter a camp 
and rest, and roam up and down the valley 
floor at your will. Do not leave without 
climbing one of the trails, or rather letting 
a horse or mule climb it with you on his 
back At Glacier Point and you will know 



xiv INTRODUCTION 

full well why I urge you to make the 
trip. 

For the student who would know more 
of his country, the West is an open book, 
waiting only for him to turn the pages. 

For the automobilist, Paradise awaits 
you! For the aviator, landings are being 
prepared; the one which I saw at Crater 
Lake in the summer of 1919 will enable 
you to reach an extinct volcano of in- 
comparable beauty. For you who have 
never been in our wondrous West, may 
this book help you to decide to spend what 
has been saved for your next trip there, 
where you get 100 per cent, value for your 
money ! 

As my object is to give, in the shortest 
space possible, suggestions for the west- 
bound traveller, the matter is arranged in 
five parts. 

K. E. M. D. 

New London, N. H., July 1, 1920. 



PART ONE 
THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 



CHAPTER ONE 

THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL 

PARK 

DENVER 

DENVER, the capital of Colorado, 
"The Gateway To The Rockies," 
is situated on the South Platte 
River and is only a few miles east of the 
Rocky Mountains. The city has devel- 
oped tremendously along civic lines of 
recent years and there are many public 
buildings which are well worth visiting, but 
as my rule will be throughout this book to 
omit any descriptions of cities, I must begin 
here. One can always procure maps of our 
cities and information regarding them from 
the Civic Centres, so here we will consider 
Denver as the best starting place from 
which to make countless charming trips. 

3 



4 SEEING THE WEST 

Boulder is 29 miles northwest of Denver; 
this is a fine drive; the trip to Georgetown 
and the famous "Loop" is also well worth 
while. 

If one has time for an all-day trip, 
"Corona" is satisfying; situated, as it is, 
on the crest of the main range, it is quite a 
tremendous climb; this is said to be the 
highest point reached by a standard-gauge 
railroad in the United States. The station 
is decidedly crude and there was sad dis- 
order to pass through in 1919, but having 
overlooked that, the view fully repaid one. 

The drive through Bear Creek Canyon, 
via Lookout Mountain, is magnificent. 

There are countless trips to be made all 
round the city of Denver. If one only has 
a few hours here the view from the top of 
the Equitable Building is perhaps the most 
satisfactory, and the beautiful city parks 
may be visited. 

In a wonderful unbroken line stand the 
great mountains, the view extending from 
Long's Peak on the north to Pike's Peak 
on the south. Almost any of these moun- 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 5 

tains may be ascended nowadays, some 
parties starting from Denver, others from 
Estes Park. 

The Denver and Rio Grande Railway 
makes a delightful tour called "Around the 
Circle," a four-day trip, stopping over- 
night at Durango, Silverton, and Ouray. 
On this trip the traveller passes through 
four beautiful canyons, over three or four 
mountain passes, winding back and forth 
over 1,000 miles of the Rocky Mountains. 
The ticket is good for 60 days, so that the 
stops may be made to suit any one. 

ESTES PARK 

This beautiful park lies 7,500 feet above 
sea level, and can be reached in five hours 
from Denver by the Union Pacific Railway 
or automobile. 

In the park are splendid hotels, where 
the traveller is made welcome, and from 
which fine tours are made through such 
scenery as only our great West can boast, 
mountains, valleys, lakes, and rivers; the 
views include many peaks of the Rocky 



6 SEEING THE WEST 

Mountains — Long's, 14,270 feet; Ypsilon, 
13,500 feet; Hague, 13,832 feet. Mountain 
climbing to the heart's content, hunting, 
fishing, and all the quieter sports may also 
be enjoyed here. 

The trails take us in two hours from 
flower-strewn meadows to glaciers. 

THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 

Leaving Estes Park, which forms the 
eastern gateway to the Rocky Mountain 
Park, we enter one of the finest sections of 
this magnificent range. 

The park embraces a most interesting, 
part of the Continental Divide. For the 
mountain climber this is a veritable Para- 
dise, for there seem to be peaks of every 
size and trails leading in every direction. 
For those who like the more easy method, 
the automobile roads are excellent. The 
drive through Big Thompson Canyon is 
one to rejoice the heart of the most blase. 
The area of the park is 398 square miles. 
"There are 51 mountains with summits 
more than 10,000 feet high, also unnum- 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 7 

bered canyons, about 200 lakes, waterfalls, 
glaciers, native forests, and endless num- 
bers of beautiful wild flowers." The rich- 
ness of this park is inconceivable. One is 
tempted to go into endless detailed de- 
scriptions, but it must not be. 

Many weeks may be spent here making 
different trips every day. There is every 
kind of accommodation, from the simplest 
camp to the most comfortable hotel, and 
all of this only 70 miles from Denver. 

The big game in the park is increasing 
all the time, Rocky Mountain sheep, elk, 
deer, etc., and there are one hundred 
varieties of wild bird life. 

"Entry to the park by any route is 
dramatic. If the visitor comes the all- 
motor way through Ward he picks up the 
range at Arapaho Peak, and follows it 
closely for miles. If he comes by any of 
the rail routes, his motor stage emerges 
from the foothills upon a sudden spectacle 
of magnificence — the snowy range, its 
highest summit crowned with cloud, loom- 
ing upon the horizon across the peaceful 



8 SEEING THE WEST 

plateau. By any route the appearance of 
the range begins a panorama of ever- 
changing beauty and inspiration, whose 
progress will outlive many a summer's stay. 

"Wherever one lives, however one lives, 
in this broad tableland, he is under the 
spell of the range. The call of the moun- 
tains is ever present. Riding, walking, 
motoring, fishing, golfing, sitting under the 
trees with a book, continually he lifts his 
eyes to their calm heights. Unconsciously 
he throws them the first morning glance. 
Instinctively he gazes long upon their 
gleaming moon-lit summits before turning 
in at night. In time they possess his spirit. 
They calm him, exalt him, ennoble him. 
Unconsciously he comes to know them in 
all their myriad moods. Cold and stern 
before sunrise, brilliant and vivid in mid- 
morning, soft and restful toward evening, 
gorgeously coloured at sunset, angry, at 
times terrifying, in storm, their fascination 
never weakens, their beauty changes but 
does not lessen." 

New roads and wonderful trails are being 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 9 

built on all sides here, and there is every 
variety of mountain scenery, large and 
small canyons with glacial lakes; broad, 
rolling plains, and mountain climbing, from 
the most simple to the wildest, steepest 
that heart could desire. Some of the 
smaller trips are those leading to Fern and 
Odessa lakes, to Bear Lake at the outlet 
of the Tyndall Gorge, to Loch Vale, Sky 
Pond, and the Lake of Glass, etc., etc., 
until one may reach Longs Peak's western 
precipice. "These spots are each a day's 
round trip from convenient overnight 
hotels, which deserve all the fame which 
will be theirs when the people come to 
know them, for as yet only a few hundreds 
a summer, of Rocky Mountain's hundred 
thousand guests, take the trouble to visit 
them." 

Those planning to stay any length of 
time in this park will find "The Book of 
The National Parks,"* from which I should 
like to quote a great deal more, their best 
guide. 

* Robert Sterling Yard. 



CHAPTER TWO 

COLORADO SPRINGS AND PIKE'S 

PEAK 

COLORADO SPRINGS 

COLORADO SPRINGS, to the south 
of Denver, with its sparkling, Hfe- 
giving air, is situated upon an 
elevated plateau from whence may be 
had a superb view of Pike's Peak, 14,100 
feet. 

This peak is probably the best known of 
the Rocky Mountains. It lies about six 
miles west of Colorado Springs. It is 
ascended by a cog-wheel railway, "The 
Manitou and Pike's Peak Railway," in 
about one and one half hours, or by bridle 
path in six hours; there is also a most ex- 
cellent automobile road, and powerful cars 
with good drivers make the round trip in 

10 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 11 

six hours. On the summit there is a small 
inn, where a light luncheon and a cup of 
coffee can be had. The ascent is made dur- 
ing the summer months only, there being 
too much snow in winter. The view is 
unusually extensive, and the fascination 
of being in such a world of snow is not soon 
forgotten. 

CHEYENNE MOUNTAIN 

The Cheyenne Mountain Road may well 
be considered one of Colorado Springs' 
most beautiful trips. Passing around the 
base of Cheyenne Mountain one glorious 
view after another appears. The road 
rises pretty steadily and grows decidedly 
more narrow, so narrow that only those 
with steady heads can really enjoy it. 
This drive takes us all the way to Seven 
Lakes, a distance of about 22 miles, and 
by continuing some five miles farther we 
come to Cripple Creek. From Colorado 
Springs the trip to the Cheyenne Canyons 
may be made. See especially the South 
Canyon which can be reached by electric 



n SEEING THE WEST 

car. There Is a small admission fee (50 
cents), but it Is well worth It; there are 
beautiful walks here. An easy climb takes 
one to the rim. 

THE HIGH DRIVE 

Seven Falls and the South Cheyenne 
Canyon are reached in about an hour's 
drive from Colorado Springs or Manitou, 
the return trip being made through Bear 
Creek Canyon and over the famous High 
Drive. About three hours should be al- 
lowed for the round trip, which is very well 
worth while. 

On this trip may be seen the last resting 
place of Helen Hunt Jackson, who, accord- 
ing to her own request, lies at the head of 
Seven Falls. 

Leave your car and stand between Her- 
cules Pillars, where miles of massive granite 
walls tower above you; a more impressive, 
picturesque spot is hard to find. I was dis- 
tressed here, as I am in many of the beauti- 
ful places of our country, by the thought- 
less scattering of chewing-gum papers, 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 13 

candy boxes, etc. Why, when we are 
really learning to love the great out-of- 
doors, should this awful disorder continue? 
Where are the Boy and Girl Scouts? Why 
are they not enforcing the law of order, 
at least by example? 

CRIPPLE CREEK 

The Cripple Creek trip is made in a day, 
either by train or automobile. Here one is 
enabled to visit one of the world's most 
famous gold mines. 

MANITOU 

The great charm of staying in Manitou 
is that you are within walking distance of 
so many interesting sights, then, too, you 
are right among the wonderful Springs. 
You can have the waters fresh from the 
source as many times a day as you wish. 
Manitou is a fascinating little town, sit- 
uated in the foothills about Pike's Peak 
and just at the head of the old Ute Pass. 
It is six miles from Colorado Springs, and 
for those who wish quiet, may be found 



14 SEEING THE WEST 

more attractive as a stopping place, than 
the more prosperous city. 

THE GARDEN OF THE GODS 

The Garden of the Gods is only a short 
walk from Manitou, and is a most charming 
place in which to pass the sunset hour ; where 
better could one beat this time than beneath 
the Cathedral Spires? This is quite the 
most impressive spot in this unique garden. 

THE COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT 

"This monument, which is near Grand 
Junction, Colorado, is similar to the Garden 
of the Gods, and is said by some to be more 
picturesque. 

"It contains fine examples of erosion, 
particularly of lofty monoliths; these latter 
are found in several tributary canyons, 
some of them of very great size, one being 
more than 400 feet high." 

MOUNT MANITOU 

The trip up Mount Manitou is made by 
incline. It would seem hardly worth while 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 15 

to ascend so comparatively small a moun- 
tain so near the famous Pike's Peak; but this 
is not so; the view from the top of Manitou 
is particularly pleasing, and the tramps on 
the top are very lovely. If I had been 
obliged to miss either ascent I know now 
that I would rather it had been Pike's Peak. 

THE CAVE OF THE WINDS 

This cave is only a short walk from 
Manitou, about two miles, through the 
lovely Williams Canyon, and following the 
Temple Drive. It is, perhaps, rather too 
severe a climb for those who are not used 
to this exercise, but the trip is easily made 
by automobile. The cave is most un- 
usually interesting, it is three quarters of a 
mile deep, and is composed of sixteen large 
rooms and long, winding passages on three 
levels. The stalactites and stalagmites 
are most fascinating in their formation, and 
a brilhant electrical illumination shows off 
to perfection all of this truly remarkable 
place. The cave alone would repay one for 
the trip to Manitou. 



16 SEEING THE WEST 



CLIFF DWELLINGS 

I went to see these dwellings the first 
time with rather scornful feelings, having 
read and always understood that they were 
entirely artificial ; but I was so impressed by 
their natural appearance and solidity that 
I made inquiries in Manitou, and was for- 
tunate enough to meet, and hear at first 
hand, the entire story of the bringing of 
this dwelling from the Mesa Verde by the 
gentleman who moved it, brick by brick 
and stone by stone. He assured me that 
the greatest care had been used in resetting 
every atom exactly as it was found, in a 
cliff as nearly like the original as possible. 
Hence, this dwelling may be taken as q 
good example of the ancient cliff dwellings 
by those who are not fortunate enough to 
see the original dwellings at the Mesa 
Verde. 



CHAPTER THREE 

SALT LAKE CITY AND THE ZION 
NATIONAL PARK 

SALT LAKE CITY 

THE capital of the state of Utah is 
situated in a large valley surrounded 
by mountains, chiefly the Wahsatch 
range. This city was founded by the 
Mormons in 1847 before the "Territory of 
Utah" was organized. 

The Tabernacle was built in 1864-67, a 
large, unusual, oval-shaped building, 250 
feet long, 150 feet wide and 70 feet high; it 
is said to seat 12,000 people. It is open to 
visitors. The Tabernacle was built in its 
present form in 1893, and is reported to 
have cost more than $4,000,000; this build- 
ing is not open to visitors. 

From Prospect Hill an excellent view of 

17 



18 SEEING THE V^^ST 

the city may be had, and a more extensive 
view of the surrounding country from 
Ensign Peak. 

THE GREAT SALT LAKE 

Some 5 miles from Salt Lake City is 
the Great Salt Lake, 80 miles long and 30 
miles wide; it varies greatly in depth. 

Beautiful mountainous islands rise out of 
the lake and the whole body of water is 
picturesque to a degree. The tints of 
the water at sunset are exquisite, and the 
floating spars, so often seen here, heavily 
encrusted with salt crystals, add greatly 
to the dazzling effects of the rays of 
light. 

The trip across the lake by rail is one of 
the interesting experiences in going to the 
Far West via Salt Lake City. 

OGDEN AND THE OGDEN CANYON 

Ogden lies 30 miles north of Salt Lake 
City; it is a railroad centre. For those 
who may be delayed here it may be well to 
know that the Ogden River Canyon is a 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 19 

beautiful spot. It can be reached by 
automobile or by street car. 

THE CANYON OF THE ARKANSAS 

At Canyon City, situated at the mouth 
of the canyon of the Arkansas, if you 
happen to have taken the "Denver and 
Rio Grande Scenic Railway" for this sec- 
tion of your trip, you leave the Pullman 
car and take your seat in a flat, uncov- 
ered observation car (during the summer 
months) and so pass through this superb 
gorge. The next ten miles takes you 
through a bit of scenery worth going any- 
where to see. There is a fine piece of 
engineering here. The train seems in spots 
to cling to the sides of the gorge, and it is 
here that we cross the famous Hanging 
Bridge, the waters of the Arkansas dashing 
madly past. Strangers who have never 
been in this part of the world before may 
possibly be misled into thinking they are 
seeing the Grand Canyon while passing 
through here; but this canyon of the 
Arkansas must not be confounded with the 



20 SEEING THE WEST 

canyon of the Colorado River, which is 
known all over the world as "The Grand 
Canyon." It is a sad pity that the word 
GRAND has been used in connection with 
these lesser canyons. It is a misnomer, 
and I know that many people have been 
misled by it. 

THE MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 

Of all the ruins of prehistoric peoples in 
our great Southwest, these are the largest, 
best preserved, and most picturesquely 
situated, hence Congress has set aside as a 
National Park this large area of 48,966 
acres under the above title. 

This mesa, or high tableland, is cut by 
many canyons, and in these canyon walls 
are found most of the cliff dwellings of this 
truly remarkable region. Much has been 
done here to make it possible for the trav- 
eller to reach and explore, for himself, 
these dwellings of the ancients. 

The best approach is from Mancos, 
Colorado; from here to the ruins is only 
10 miles (as the crow flies) and some 30 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 21 

miles by auto road on account of the 
various canyons to be traversed; a trip 
more full of interest would be hard to find 
in any country. 

The trip from Mancos to Spruce Tree 
Camp is made in about three hours, and 
here we are taken care of for the night. 

The park was established to protect the 
wonderful cliff dwellings of the Mancos 
Canyons, which are said to be among the 
most important remains of this mysterious 
race. There is one dwelling here in ex- 
cellent preservation, others in varying 
stages of demolition. The age of these 
ruins is supposed to be from 500 to 1,000 
years. To those who are especially in- 
terested in this region and who desire 
further information, I recommend Mr. 
T. H. Chapin's "The Land of the Cliff 
Dwellers." 

"The principle and most accessible ruins 
are the Spruce Tree House, CKff Palace, 
Balcony House, and Tunnel House. Spruce 
Tree House is located in the head of Spruce 
Tree Canyon, a branch of Navajo Canyon. 



22 SEEING THE WEST 

It originally contained about 130 rooms, 
built of dressed stone laid in adobe mortar, 
with the outside tiers chinked with chips 
of rocks and broken pottery. 

"Cliff Palace is located about two miles 
east of Spruce Tree House, in a left branch 
of Cliff Canyon, and consists of a group of 
houses with ruins of 164 rooms, including 
20 round kivas, or ceremonial rooms, and a 
tapering, loopholed tower forming a cres- 
cent of about 100 yards from horn to horn, 
which is reputed to be one of the most 
famous works of prehistoric man in exist- 
ence. 

"Balcony House, a mile east of Cliff 
Palace, in Ruin Canj^on, contains about 
25 rooms, some of which are in almost 
perfect condition. 

"Tunnel House, about two miles south 
of Spruce Tree House, contains about 20 
rooms and two kivas connected by an 
elaborate system of underground passages, 
and a burial ground of 5,000 square feet. 
In each of these villages is an elaborate 
system of fortification, with, in some cases. 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 23 

walls two to three feet thick and 20 feet 
high, watchtowers 30 feet high, and block- 
houses pierced with small loopholes for 
arrows. ..." 

I should advise any traveller planning to 
visit any of the Southwest Indian Reserva- 
tions to go well armed with literature. The 
U. S. Government circulars, from which the 
above is quoted, may be had from the 
Department of the Interior, and the Santa 
F6 Railroad provides excellent literature. 

ZION NATIONAL PARK 

"With the creation of the Zion National 
Park in 1919 there entered into our Na- 
tional Park system a reservation as re- 
markable, as brilliantly beautiful, and as 
highly differentiated from all others as any 
of the distinguished group. It contains a 
hundred and twenty square miles of 
painted terrace country of southern Utah, 
surrounding from its source a shallow river 
whose carved and fretted and monumented 
canyon lies between sandstone walls which 
rise two thousand feet in gorgeous mottled 



24 SEEING THE WEST 

reds, surmounted by a thousand feet in 
marble-white. 

"This Park makes two principal appeals, 
that to the universal delight in extraordi- 
nary beauty of colour and form, and that 
to the intelligence of the student of earth's 
history. . . . To the best of my knowl- 
edge, there is no place in the world where 
one may see so easily so much of the record 
of the earth's history. 

"This canyon winding like a snake, 
abounding in enormous peaks and domes 
and glowing like a Roman sash, is one of 
the most striking spectacles which America 
has to offer."* 

The canyon is some 60 miles north of 
the Grand Canyon; it is reached by rail 
from Salt Lake City or Los Angeles; leav- 
ing the main line at Lund, the last 100 
miles is made by auto-stage. 

NATURAL BRIDGES 
(national monument) 

"The natural bridges for whose preserva- 
tion this National Monument in San Juan 



*Robert Sterling Yard. 



THE SOUTHERN ROCKIES 25 

County, Utah, was created are understood 
to be the largest examples of their kind, 
the greatest of the three having a height 
of 222 feet and a thickness of Q5 feet at the 
top of the arch. The arch is 28 feet wide, 
the span 261 feet and the height of the 
span 157 feet. 

"The three bridges are within a five- 
mile area and constitute an imposing 
spectacle. In this region are two fine 
cavern springs as well as other interesting 
and scientifically valuable natural curiosi- 
ties." 

THE DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT 

Just south of the Uinta Mountains and 
18 miles east of the town of Vernal, in 
the northeastern section of Utah, lies 
this area (80 acres) which has been set 
aside, as a national monument, under 
the above title, on account of its remark- 
able fossil deposits of extinct reptiles of 
great size. Remains of many enormous 
animals, which once inhabited what is 
now our southwest, have been unearthed in 



26 SEEING THE WEST 

a state of fine preservation. These include 
complete and perfect skeletons of large 
Dinosaurs. 

Near here may be visited the Uinta 
Indian Reservation. 



PART TWO 
THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 



CHAPTER ONE 

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES 

IN WRITING of the Northern Rockies 
we must leave our own territory long 
enough to say a few words of the 
superb section of this great range, which is 
known as the "Canadian Rockies," where 
for 500 miles, east and west, the Canadian 
Pacific trains pass through incomparable 
scenery. One stands amazed at the feats 
of engineering which have been carried 
through all along these lines. One great 
mountain after another looms up before 
us, their bald heads seeming to pierce the 
very sky, while the snow lies many feet 
deep on their sides. The Selkirks defy 
description! The train glides through one 
wonderful pass after another. 

The traveller should arrange to stop 
at Banff, the gateway to the Canadian 

29 



30 SEEING THE WEST 

Rockies. The railroad has a fine hotel 
there from which may be made many 
splendid excursions in the vicinity, all are 
easily accessible by motor, carriage, horse- 
back, or on donkeys. The lake, about 
nine miles off, known as "Lake Minne- 
wanka," sixteen miles long, makes a 
delightful excursion; this lake, whose waters 
are very deep, is walled in by tremendous 
cliffs; steam launches make the round trip. 
Continuing westward from here, we 
come, in about two hours, to Laggan, the 
station for Lake Louise. Leaving the 
train and taking an incline car we soon find 
ourselves part way up one of these splendid 
mountains, where this indescribable gem, 
Lake Louise, suddenly bursts upon our 
sight. There is hardly a finer spot than 
this in Switzerland; the lake, 5,G45 feet 
above sea level, lies in a hollow at the base 
of three great mountains, and at the far 
end, in the most dramatic setting, is the 
superb Victoria Glacier, facing directly 
the Chateau Lake Louise, where we im- 
mediately try to procure rooms looking 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 31 

out upon this lovely view. As soon as you 
are settled, start out and walk round the 
lake, 3 or 4 miles. This gives you an inti- 
mate, friendly feeling which will almost 
undoubtedly be succeeded by a feeling of 
awe as the majestic splendour of the place 
grows upon you. 

From here a most interesting set of 
mountain trips may be made by either 
road or bridle path; the latter is of course 
the better, as one can go farther and climb 
higher. I cannot go into detail, but the 
hotel gives full information, provides horses, 
guides, etc. Do not fail to see Mirror 
Lake (altitude 6,550 feet) or Lake Agnes 
(altitude 6,820 feet), truly a lake in the 
clouds, and encircled by majestic peaks. 
The beauty of this region cannot be ex- 
aggerated. 

The " Valley of the Ten Peaks " is unique, 
and this is a trip all can make, a 10-mile 
drive over good roads. I shall attempt no 
description of this valley, one must see it. 
Leaving Lake Louise and Laggan, we pass 
through Field, where another stop may be 



32 SEEING THE WEST 

made, and various interesting excursions 
taken. 

Glacier, near the summit of the inex- 
pressibly beautiful Selkirk Range, ought 
not to be passed by; here again comfortable 
accommodations have been arranged. 
Mount Sir Donald, pointed out as we pass, 
rises to a height of more than a mile from 
the railroad. 

At Sicamous there is also a temptation 
to stop and explore, for we are nearing the 
end of the five hundred miles of the Rocky 
Mountains through which we pass. Be- 
yond Ashcroft we enter the canyon of the 
Thompson, through Agassiz and Mission 
Junction, and about 50 miles farther on we 
reach Vancouver. I attempt no descrip- 
tion of this interesting city for the reason 
given above, adequate information and 
local maps can always be had in every 
metropolis. 

A suggestion for a camping trip, to be 
taken from Lake Louise, has just come to 
me. I insert it for those who may wish 
to plan such a trip. 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 33 



THE TRAIL OF THE STONEY INDIAN 

"Lake Louise, Alberta, is the point from 
which you start on this Httle-used and 
superb trail, with saddle and pack horses 
and the guides who will cook the meals, 
wrangle the horses, and steer you safely 
over any or all difficulties, bad trails, steep 
cliffs, and treacherous glaciers. You take 
with you all your provisions, tents, and 
whatever you may need for the trip. 

"Along the Bow River you wend your 
way, vast snow-topped mountains on every 
side, and the trail winding now over steep 
shale slopes, with the panorama of spark- 
ling glaciers, rushing rivers, and deep can- 
yons; again, plunging into a pine forest 
where the ground is covered with delicate 
pink twin flowers and white anemones; 
riding all day and sleeping out under the 
blue sky where, if you are fortunate, the 
Northern Lights flash in flames of red and 
gold. Here one wants to linger indefinitely. 

"Passing Pyramid Peak, with its almost 
insurmountable overhanging cliffs, Mount 



St SEEING THE WEST 

Murchison, calm and majestic, at last you 
reach the Saskatchewan River. The horses 
plunge up to their withers in icy water 
which rushes by foaming around the knees 
of the rider, but the other side is reached 
in safety. Sometimes your camping 

ground is by an old wigwam of the Stoney 
Indians, littered with grotesque, carved 
wooden animals and people, made by the 
cliildren, with here and there a discarded 
moccasin or broken knife; again you may 
find an Indian * sweat-bath' made of 
saplings bent in a half circle; the Indians 
cover this framework with blankets and 
pour water over red-hot stones which are 
placed at one end, making a regular Turk- 
ish bath. Usually, however, the trail is 
unmarred by signs of man; in many places 
great trees have fallen across the path 
and have to be cut away before you can 
ride on. 

"Mount Athabaska and Mount Wilcox 
loom before you, or perhaps you turn to 
the north, into the Brazeau country, 
where the mountain sheep roam in great 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 35 

flocks. But ever you follow the sparkling 
rivers, now passing deep blue-green lakes 
nestling among the rocks and now crossing 
high, treeless passes, or barren, boulder- 
strewn hillsides, and always surrounded by 
the mountains with their ever-changing 
colours, now gray and sombre, now red, 
amber, and purple as they catch the glow 
of the sinking sun. 

"The solitude and stillness are broken 
only by the thunder of a distant avalanche, 
or murmur of a near-by stream, the glor- 
ious scenery and the wildness of it all 
catching and holding you with a fascina- 
tion that cannot be cast off."* 

*Josephine Richards 



CHAPTER TWO 

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 

AND 
THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL 

PARK 

THE main features of interest to the 
average American traveller in this 
Northern Rocky Mountain region 
are, of course, Glacier National Park and 
the Yellowstone National Park. 

Glacier Park is situated in the north- 
west of Montana. The reservation com- 
prises 915,000 acres and contains 260 lakes 
and 60 glaciers, varying from five square 
miles to a few acres in area. 

Here as in all the other great national 
parks of our western country, camps have 
been provided, and every kind of accommo- 
dation, from this to elaborate hotels, is to 
be had there. 

36 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 37 

It is quite impossible to attempt a de- 
scription of all these parks without a very 
long list of new adjectives, for Nature has 
been more than generous in dowering this 
part of the world with wonderful scenery. 
See lakes McDonald, St. Mary, McDuff, 
and Iceberg Lake; this last is almost sur- 
rounded by great towering cliffs, many of 
them rising to an elevation of 2,000 feet, 
in the crevices of which he large glaciers. 
Even in the short space of time which the 
average tourist gives this spot, he is fre- 
quently rewarded by hearing and seeing 
some great fragment break from its parent 
glacier and crash into the water, where, 
in the form of small icebergs, they are 
always seen floating; hence the name of the 
lake. 

Blackfeet Glacier is the largest and by 
far the most impressive in the park; none 
but hardy mountain climbers should at- 
tempt the ascent. 

The park is reached by the Great North- 
ern Railroad, from either Bel ton or Glacier 
Park. "Stop-overs" are allowed on any 



38 SEEING THE WEST 

transcontinental ticket, and one, two, or 
three day tours will be arranged as re- 
quested. 

There is a fine hotel at Glacier Park 
Station and from here automobile roads 
lead in to the "Many -Glacier" Hotel 
and the chalet-like groups of camping 
places. 

But I do not wish to give the impression 
that Glacier Park is a place to be visited 
en route; far from it; it is a place to go to 
for weeks or months, a place for the invalid 
to rest in, for the student of Nature to 
revel in, or for the most vigorous young 
people to tramp in. By far the most 
attractive way to see the park is on 
foot and is becoming more and more 
popular. Walking tours can be arranged 
at a very small cost, the party either 
taking its own outfit, or using the chalets 
scattered through the park for their 
benefit. 

Full information on this park can 
be obtained from the Great Northern 
R. R. or the Department of the Interior. 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 39 

THE devil's tower 
(national monument) 

"The Devil's Tower is one of the most 
conspicuous features in the Black Hill re- 
gion of Wyoming. It rises with extreme 
abruptness from the rough Wyoming levels 
just back of the Black Hills. It is on the 
bank of the Belle Fourche River. This 
extraordinary tower emerges from a 
rounded forested hill of sedimentary rock 
which rises six hundred feet above the 
plain; from the top of that the tower rises 
six hundred feet still higher. It is visible 
for a hundred miles or more in every direc- 
tion. The visitor approaching by auto- 
mobile sees it hours away, and its growth 
upon the horizon as he approaches is the 
least of his memorable experience. . . . 

"The Devil's Tower can be likened to 
nothing but itself. It is the core of a vol- 
canic formation which doubtless once had a 
considerably larger circumference. At its 
base lies an immense talus of broken col- 
umns which the loosening frosts and the 



40 SEEING THE WEST 

winter gales are constantly increasing; the 
process has been going on for untold thou- 
sands of years, during which the softer 
rock of the surrounding plains has been 
eroded to its present level."* 

THE BITTER ROOT VALLEY, MONTANA 

The Bitter Root Valley, at the foot of 
which Missoula lies, is one of the rich and 
beautiful western valleys and is interesting 
historically. Lewis and Clark traversed the 
valley in 1805-06 and some of their great 
hardships were encountered in crossing the 
Bitter Root Mountains. The point where 
their trail turned into the range is about 
12 miles above Missoula. 

At Stevensville, about 28 miles up this 
valley, Father De Smet established his first 
mission to the Salish, or Flathead, Indians, 
in 1841. The old church, St. Mary's, still 
stands and is used at intervals. The In- 
dians were removed from here many years 
ago. 



*Robert Sterling Yard. 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 41 

The valley has a great reputation for its 
fruits and vegetables. 

At Ravalli, on the Flathead Reservation, 
the Government has established a bison 
preserve of about 18,000 acres, with a herd 
of from one to two hundred of these fine 
creatures. This reservation is reached by 
the Northern Pacific Railroad from Arlee, 
Montana, and a drive of four or Qve miles. 

From here westward to Pend d 'Oreille 
we follow the Clark fork of the Columbia 
River. Lake Pend d 'Oreille, Idaho, is one 
of the crystal gems of the west; it is 55 
miles long and from 2 to 15 miles wide. 
These sparkling waters fill what was a deep 
mountain canyon. Soundings have been 
made to the depth of 4,000 feet without 
finding bottom. Exquisitely wooded moun- 
tains rise from the water's edge, forming a 
wonderful setting. 

Lake Coeur d'Alene, the source of the 
Spokane River, is another lovely spot in 
Idaho. Here there are some fine summer 
homes. 

Through wild and rugged scenery we 



42 SEEING THE WEST 

reach Spokane, and beyond cross the beau- 
tiful Columbia River and enter the Yakima 
Valley, another perfection of irrigation. 

THE LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERN 
(national monument) 

Crossing a spur of the Rocky Mountains 
just west of Livingston, where Lewis and 
Clark crossed in 1806, we pass through 
Galatin Valley, a famous barley -raising 
region; here are more than 100 miles of 
irrigating canals. At Bozeman the Mon- 
tana State Agriculture College is located. 

Near the great mining city of Butte is 
the Lewis and Clark Cavern, presented to 
the United States, as a national monu- 
ment, by the Northern Pacific Railway. 
These huge, beautiful caves attract many 
visitors. Near Butte are also the Pipe- 
stone Hot Springs and Boulder Hot 
Springs. 

SPOKANE 

Spokane, which used to be a trading post, 
is now a prosperous city. 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 43 

Fort Wright, one of the miHtary posts 
of the United States Government, is on 
the outskirts of the city on the bank of the 
Spokane River. Crossing the Cascade 
Range and passing down through the 
Green River Canyon, we reach Seattle or 
Tacoma, at the extreme south of Puget 
Sound. 

SHOSHONE CAVERN 
(national monument) 

"On the way to the Yellowstone Na- 
tional Park by way of the Wyoming en- 
trance, at Cody, and three miles east of 
the great Shoshone Dam, a limestone cave 
has been set apart under the above title. 

The way in is rough and precipitous, and 
after entering the cave a descent by rope 
is necessary to reach the chambers, which 
are of unusual beauty and extend for more 
than a mile through galleries, some of 
which are heavily encrusted with crystals, 

THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 

The Yellowstone National Park is situ- 
ated in the extreme northwest corner of 



44 SEEING THE WEST 

Wyoming, extending a few miles into Mon- 
tana on the north and into Idaho and 
Montana on the west. The reservation, 
set apart by act of Congress in 1872, is 
5,500 square miles. 

From Salt Lake City or Ogden this park 
is reached by the Denver Rio Grande 
Railway or the Union Pacific in about 12 
hours, but this trip, like so many others, 
can be arranged for you by whatever line 
you take. 

The Northern Pacific Railway offers a 
splendidly arranged tour to and through the 
park by way of Livingston, the Gate of 
the Mountains, and the Upper Yellow- 
stone River to Gardiner, the original en- 
trance to the park, and only five miles 
from Mammoth Hot Springs, the official 
headquarters of the park. 

The Yellowstone Park season is from 
June 15th to September 15th. It is not 
necessary to suggest what shall be seen 
here, for the trips are all arranged for one, 
and none should leave without making the 
complete tour. This park is unlike any 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 45 

other; it is unique in many ways. It con- 
tains geysers, mud volcanoes, mineral 
springs, and the most gloriously coloured 
pools. The Yellowstone Canyon can be 
compared with no other; here we have a 
riot of colour, said by many to rival the 
colours of the Grand Canyon, really so 
entirely different as to make comparison 
impossible. The walls of the Yellowstone 
Canyon are divided by a space of many 
miles at the top, which narrows down to 
three quarters of a mile at the base, where 
the foaming waters dash between them, and 
here the fragments of all the lost rainbows 
seem to have been collected. 

There are many fine mountain peaks, 
the finest being Mount Washburn, which 
has an elevation of 10,346 feet, named for 
General Washburn, the head of the Wash- 
burn-Doane exploration party, who first 
climbed it in 1870. From here one gets 
the only view of the park as a whole. I 
have never forgotten a remark which I 
heard John Muir make about this spot; 
he said: "When you go to the Yellow- 



46 SEEING THE WEST 

stone Park do not leave it under any 
consideration until you have been taken 
up Mount Washburn, and when you reach 
the top of the mountain refuse to come 
down until you have passed a night on the 
summit; never mind about sleep; remember 
that there will come a time when you will 
take a long enough sleep to make up for all 
you can ever lose; this will be a sublime 
experience." 

Words cannot tell of the impressiveness 
of the geysers. One may sit comfortably 
on the veranda of Old Faithful Inn and 
watch one eruption after another, re- 
peated endlessly. But with every change 
of light, early morning, noontide, at sunset, 
or by moonlight, they are seen with new 
interest, and on the moonless nights the 
visitors are called to see some of these great 
spouts with the rays of a powerful search- 
light upon them. 

Old Faithful, which is described as the 
most perfect illustration of geyseric phe- 
nomena and whose curious fascination and 
real beauty cannot be described, plays 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 47 

every 85 minutes to a height of 125 to 150 
feet, the eruptions lasting about five min- 
utes. 

The Giant Geyser, generally conceded 
to be the finest in the park, throws its 
great volume of water to a height of 
250 feet, playing irregularly about three 
times a month and lasting about 90 
minutes. 

The Castle Geyser, so named for its 
beautifully formed crater, plays only once 
every 26 or 27 hours, but lasts from 25 
minutes to three quarters of an hour. 
This is truly an awe-inspiring sight. 

The Riverside Geyser is among the fa- 
vourites. Standing on the right bank of the 
Firehole River, it throws its spray into the 
air in a beautiful, graceful arch across the 
waters of the river, playing every 7 hours 
and lasting about seven minutes, and 
almost invariably displaying wonderful 
rainbow colours. 

There is a plateau a quarter of a mile in 
extent, covered with hot pools, each of the 
most marvellously brilliant colours — reds. 



48 SEEING THE WEST 

greens, yellows, etc. — perhaps the most 
beautiful of all being the one known as 
Morning-Glory Pool, so named from its 
curious shape resembling this well-known 
flower. 

This park is a famous animal preserve, 
elk, deer, buffalo and bear thrive here. 
The bears cause great entertainment, com- 
ing down near some of the hotels to feed 
upon whatever may be offered them; hav- 
ing been protected so long, they have no 
fear. 

Of all of our national parks the Yellow- 
stone is the largest. It is also the highest 
and coolest. We are told that frosts occur 
there every month of the year. Mr. Muir 
says of it: "The air is electric and full of 
ozone; healing, reviving, exhilarating, kept 
pure by frost and fire, while the scenery is 
wild enough to awaken the dead. 

"It is a glorious place to grow in and 
rest in. Camping on the shores of the 
lakes in the warm openings of the woods, 
golden with sunflowers, on the banks of the 
streams, by the snowy waterfalls, beside the 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 49 

exciting wonders or away from them in the 
scallops of the mountain walls sheltered 
from every wind, on smooth, silky lawns 
enamelled with gentians, up in the fountain 
hollows of the ancient glaciers between 
the peaks, where cool pools and brooks and 
gardens of precious plants charmingly em- 
bowered are never wanting. . . . 

"Again and again amid the calmest, 
stillest scenery you will be brought to a 
standstill, hushed and awe-stricken before 
phenomena wholly new to you. Boiling 
springs and huge, deep pools of purest green 
and azure water, thousands of them are 
splashing and heaving in these high, cool 
mountains as if a fierce fire were burning 
beneath each one of them; and a hundred 
geysers, white torrents of boiling water 
and steam, like inverted waterfalls, are 
ever and anon rushing up out of the hot, 
black underworld. 

"Some of these ponderous geyser col- 
umns are as large as sequoias — 5 to 60 feet 
in diameter, 150 to 300 feet high — and are 
sustained at this great height with tremen- 



50 SEEING THE WEST 

dous energy for a few minutes, or perhaps 
nearly an hour, standing rigid and erect, 
hissing, throbbing, booming, as if thunder- 
storms were raging beneath their roots. 
. . . No frost cools them, snow never 
covers them . . . winter and summer 
they welcome alike . . . faithfully ris- 
ing and sinking in fairy, rhythmic dance 
night and day, in all sorts of weather, at 
varying periods of minutes, hours, or weeks. 
. . . The largest and one of the most 
beautiful of the springs is the Prismatic, 
which the guide will be sure to show you. 
With a circumference of three hundred 
yards, it is more like a lake than a spring. 
The water is pure deep, blue in the centre, 
fading to green on the edges, and its basin 
and the slightly terraced pavement about 
it are astonishingly bright and varied in 
colour. This one of the Yellowstone foun- 
tains is of itself object enough for a trip 
across the continent. . . . 

"Near the Prismatic Spring is the great 
Excelsior Geyser, which is said to throw a 
column of boiling water 60 to 70 feet in 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 51 

diameter to a height of from 50 to 300 feet 
at irregular periods. . . ." 

But I could quote this great nature lover 
indefinitely. He is absolutely fascinating 
on any of these subjects. See for yourself 
"Our National Parks," by John Muir, and 
if you are going west, as he would have you 
go, quietly, with time to draw near to na- 
ture, to read and to think, take a copy of 
his book with you. 

Mr. Muir used his pen as a great artist 
uses his brush, his descriptions are the most 
exquisite of pictures. 

"The Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone 
National Park cover an extensive area in 
the northern portion of the park, being 
especially abundant along the west side of 
Lamar River for about 20 miles above its 
junction with the Yellowstone. Here the 
land rises rather abruptly to a height of 
approximately 2,000 feet above the valley 
floor. It is known as Specimen Ridge, and 
forms an approach to Amethyst Mountain. 
There is also a small fossil forest containing 
a number of standing trunks near Tower 



52 SEEING THE WEST 

Falls, and near the eastern border of the 
park along Lamar River in the vicinity of 
Cache, Calfee, and Miller creeks, there are 
many more or less isolated trunks and 
stumps of fossil trees, but so far as known 
none of these is equal in interest to the 
fossil forest on the slopes of Specimen 
Ridge." 

The fossil forests are easily reached over 
the wagon roads from the Mammoth Hot 
Springs, or from the Wylie Camp at Tower 
Falls. 

Those who really wish to see these petri- 
fied trees must make a special point of it, 
or else they may be told, as I was, that the 
two small stumps seen in passing are all 
that are there. 

In addition to a large redwood stump 
which stands 12 feet high, there are two 
trunks which stand 25 feet high and are 
two feet in diameter; another, three feet in 
diameter and 30 feet high, etc. 

In addition to these standing trees many 
trunks lie prone upon the ground. 

Ten species of trees have been found in 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 53 

the fossil forests of this park as well as 
some 150 fossil plants. 

For further information on this, or any 
other of the national parks or monuments, 
apply to "The Department of the In- 
terior," Washington, D. C. 

JACKSON LAKE 

The Jackson Lake region is reached by 
automobile, from Old Faithful Inn, at 
which place arrangements can be made for 
the trip. 

The lake lies just north of the very 
beautiful Teton Range, across the southern 
boundary of the park and about 70 miles 
from Old Faithful; this trip makes a most 
delightfully worth-while addition to a visit 
to the Yellowstone Park; the drive down 
is very fine, following the Yellowstone 
Lake for a time, crossing the Continental 
Divide, with views of the Absoroka Range 
to the east, where we see such great peaks 
as Mount Langford with an altitude of 
10,600 feet; Mount Shurz, 10,600 feet; 
Colton Peak, 10,500 feet, and Table Moun- 



54 SEEING THE WEST 

tain, 10,800 feet, standing, snow clad, in 
the distance. 

From Lewis Lake to the border of the 
park the drive follows the Snake River, and 
shortly after leaving the park the river is 
crossed and Jackson Lake comes clearly 
into view; the road leads down the east side 
of the lake to Moran and here there is a 
small hotel where we are taken care of. 

There are lovely wild excursions to be 
made in every direction. Bold peaks, 
unsealed by man, and glacial canyons. 
The great ragged peaks of the Teton Range 
show every variety of shape and size: 
Grand Teton, 13,747 feet, and Moran, 
12,100 feet, are the finest, standing as they 
do only about five or six miles apart, each 
with a lovely lake nestled at its base; what 
a superb gateway they may some day make 
for a southern entrance to the Yellowstone 
Park if, as is now hoped, this region, in- 
cluding the two mountains and the two 
lakes, is to be added to the Yellowstone 
Park area. 

Mount Moran stands majestically, di- 



THE NORTHERN ROCKIES 55 

rectly across the lake from Moran, where 
the lake is about nine miles wide; the view 
of this exceptionally beautiful mountain 
across the clear, deep-blue water, is one 
not easy to forget. To nature lovers, 
trampers, and climbers I commend this 
region. 

Jackson Lake has been connected with 
the great system of trails which runs all 
through the Yellowstone Park. The trav- 
eller taking this route will follow the east 
side of the Yellowstone Lake to the ex- 
treme south end, then the river of the same 
name, until, after crossing the river, the 
trail follows the Atlantic Creek to the 
Divide, over the Divide, and down, follow- 
ing the Pacific Creek to Moran. 



PART THREE 
THE NORTHWEST 

There where the livid tundras keep their tryst with 

the tranquil snows; 
There where the silences are spawned, and the light 

of hell-fire flows 
Into the bowl of the midnight sky, violet, amber, and 

rose. 



There where the rapids churn and roar, and the ice- 
floes bellowing run; 

Where the tortured, twisted rivers of blood rush to 
the setting sun. 

— Robert W. Service. 



67 



CHAPTER ONE 

ALASKA AND CRATER LAKE 
NATIONAL PARK 

PUGET SOUND 

ONE might spend weeks taking the 
trips on Puget Sound alone, for this 
is one of the most beautiful bits of 
salt water to be found anywhere. The 
mountains seem to rise right out of the 
water and are wooded to the water's 
edge. 

The area of Puget Sound is about 2,000 
square miles and its irregular shore-line is 
said to be 8,600 miles long. 

Beautiful views of Mt. Rainier and Mt. 
Baker are had as one sails up the sound, 
and to the west lie the Olympics. 

To speak of the various trips here would 
require too much space, for they are as 
numerous by land as by sea, and the beau- 

59 



CO SEEING THE WEST 

tiful roads invite one to motor end- 
lessly. 

MOUNT OLYMPUS 
(national monument) 

"For 60 miles or more east and west 
across the Olympian Peninsula, in the 
northwestern corner of Washington, be- 
tween Puget Sound and the Pacific Ocean, 
stretch the Olympian Mountains. 

Mount Olympus, 8,100 feet in altitude, 
rises majestically between the Strait of 
Juan de Fuca and the Pacific Ocean. 
The peninsula is wild, though there is a 
road connecting the water-front towns. 
Access to the mountain is by arduous 
trail. 

This area was set aside as a national 
monument to preserve the Olympic elk, 
a species peculiar to the region.' 



j> 



ALASKA 

From Vancouver, British Columbia, to 

Skagway, Alaska, is one thousand miles. 

This is a most fascinating steamer trip. 



THE NORTHWEST 61 

which may also be made from either Seat- 
tle or San Francisco. Winding between 
islands and the mainland, passing glaciers 
with the summer sun shining overhead, the 
steamers stop at various places, and the 
interesting Totem Pole People (the Alas- 
kan Indians), may be interviewed. 

Captain Stretch, whose many years of 
connection as an engineer with mining and 
railroad enterprises in the West and Alaska 
render him an authority, says: "Alaska is 
a country unique in its geographical situa- 
tion, unique in its climate, and unique in 
its physical beauties. Cape Barrow, its 
northernmost cape, is warmer than any 
point in the world as far north of the 
equator; and its southern shores bordering 
the North Pacific Ocean are likewise 
warmer than any point in the world in 
similar latitudes during the winter months 
as the result of the beneficent influence of 
the Japan current. Norway alone can 
approach it in these respects, but in Nor- 
way the mountain backbone runs parallel 
to the coastline, and its rivers are insignifi- 



62 SEEING THE WEST 

cant streams, and there is no room for 
extensive valleys; while in Alaska the im- 
mense quadrangle is divided into three 
zones by lofty mountains . . . which 
leave between them broad plains, through 
which such streams as the Kuskokwin, 
with 600, and the Yukon, with 2,000 miles 
of navigable waters, open up its vast in- 
terior. Norway and Sweden are the Mecca 
and Medina of the European tourist in 
search of the picturesque and sublime, and 
the latter country takes its annual toll of 
American pilgrims on similar sights intent; 
but Alaska can discount anything which 
these countries can boast. Its mountains 
overtop Mont Blanc, the Jungfrau, or the 
Matterhorn; its glaciers dwarf the Mer de 
Glace. 

"At the Childs Glacier you may loll at 
ease by the river bank on a carpet of flowers 
while the glacier splits with a noise like a 
cannon shot or the staccato reports of 
small arms, and watch avalanche after 
avalanche start 300 feet above, driving the 
water in mighty waves up the general slope 



THE NORTHWEST 63 

below you as they take the final plunge and 
float away in the narrow river. When the 
mist has drifted by, the dead-white face 
of the ice disappears. The new dress 
glistens with the brilliancy of diamonds, 
and the deeper recesses of the fagade 
gleam blue as a summer sky unflecked by 
clouds. 

"The charm of the glaciers is never- 
ending. . . . The peace and silence 
of the rock-bound fiords, clad in green, 
with the snowy peaks of far-off mountains 
gleaming through the tree tops on the sky- 
line, suggest the delights of Lotus land; 
picture after picture more beautiful than 
anything that the Hudson can show, or 
either Norway or the Rhine can boast. 
. . . There are sunsets such as no 
painter could ever put on canvas, veritable 
vortices of flame, as though the world was 
on fire. . . . Even the sun is loath 
to leave the scene which his warmth has 
endowed with life, and forsakes it for only a 
few minutes at midnight. 

"Along the Alaskan Peninsula the tour- 



64 SEEING THE WEST 

ist may witness in safetv the tremendous 
pent-up energy of the internal fires; islands 
raised from the bottom of the ocean one 
year, only to be engulfed the next, as at 
Bogoslop. . . ." 

Here may be seen: "The crowning 
peaks of a mountain range which, dividing 
to the east, culminate in Mount McKinley, 
20,464* feet high, north of Cook Inlet; and 
Mounts St. Elias and Fairweather and their 
cold virginal sisters, grim guardians of the 
northern shores of the Pacific. These 
stupendous mountain masses (a mile taller 
than Switzerland's champion), their feet 
buried under a glacier which lines the coast 
for more than a hundred miles, are even 
more impressive than the loftiest of the 
world's famous peaks, either in the Hima- 
layas or the Andes; for while these rise 
from lofty interior plateaus, the sweep of 
St. Elias is from ocean to sky, with nothing 
to break the foreground. . . . The 

*The altitudes in this book are taken, as far as possible, 
fron) "A Dictionary of Altitudes," published by the U. S. 
Government. 



THE NORTHWEST 65 

scenic beauties of Alaska, whether they 
be of earth or water or of sky, are varied 
enough to bring enthusiasm to the Hps of 
the most blase traveller."* 

SITKA NATIONAL MONUMENT 

This reservation lies about one mile from 
the steamboat landing at Sitka, Alaska. 

Here was located the village of a warlike 
tribe, the Kik-Siti Indians. A celebrated 
witch-tree of the natives and sixteen totem 
poles, several of which are examples of the 
best work of the tribes, stand along the 
beach. 

MOUNT MCKINLEY NATIONAL PARK 

In 1917 Congress set aside as a national 
park 2,200 square miles in this region; 
as in so many other cases, the reason was to 
protect the big game, as well as the magnifi- 
cent territory. 

" Mount McKinley rises 20,300 feet above 
tidewater and 17,000 feet above the eyes 



* 



A. H. Brooks, Chief of the Alaskan Division of the 
U. S. Geological Survey. 



66 SEEING THE WEST 

of the beholder standing on the plateau at 
its base. Its enormous bulk is shrouded 
in perpetual snow two thirds down from 
its summit, and the foothills and broad 
plains upon its north and west are popu- 
lated with mountain sheep and caribou 
in unprecedented numbers. 

"In 1915 the Government began the 
railroad from Seward to Fairbanks. Its 
course lies from Cook Inlet up the Susitna 
River to the head-waters of the Nenana 
River, where it crosses the range. This 
will make access to the region easy and 
comfortable. 

"Here lies a rugged highland area far 
greater in extent than all of Switzerland, a 
virgin field for explorers and mountaineers. 

"But it must be remembered that this 
is not Switzerland, with its hotels, rail- 
ways, trained guides, and well-worn paths. 
It will appeal only to him who prefers to 
strike out for himself, who can break his 
own trail through trackless wilds, and will 
take the chances of life and limb so dear 
to the heart of the true explorer. He who 



THE NORTHWEST 67 

would master unattained summits, explore 
unknown rivers, or traverse untrodden 
glaciers in a region whose scenic beauties 
are hardly equalled, has not to seek them 
in South America or Central America, for 
generations will pass before the possibilities 
of the Alaskan Range are exhausted."* 

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 

In 1902 Congress set aside as a national 
park this area of 159,360 acres. The lake 
lies on the summit of the Cascade Range, in 
Oregon, some 65 miles north of the Califor- 
nia border. There are two ways to reach 
the park, from Medford or Ashland on the 
west, and from Klamath Falls on the 
south. 

From Medford the trip, 80 miles, is made 
by private automobile or by auto-stage; 
many interesting features are pointed out 
en route. The road leads through the 
Rogue River Valley, beside mountain 
torrents, and through Oregon's majestic 
forests. 



*Robert Sterling Yard. 



68 SEEING THE WEST 

Going in via Klamath Falls, we leave 
the main line at Weed, and break the 
journey at Klamath, where, as at Medford, 
there is a comfortable hotel. From Kla- 
math, starting in the early morning, either 
by private conveyance or auto-stage, the 
road runs through the Modoc Valley follow- 
ing the shore of Klamath Lake ; if preferred, 
the first part of the trip, from end to end 
of the lake, some 40 miles, may be made 
by boat. The lake is an interesting body 
of water and is the home of great flocks of 
pelican. At the north end of the lake the 
automobile must be taken for the re- 
mainder of the trip. This region is full of 
the historic lore of the Modoc Indians. 

Entering the park thus, by the south 
gate, and driving up beside the Anna Creek 
Canyon, there are very striking features to 
be seen ; the remarkable walls of the canyon 
are unlike anything else, they have the ap- 
pearance of lying in folds, and take the 
forms of spires and pinnacles of every 
variety. 

If you are in a hired automobile, insist 



THE NORTHWEST 69 

upon being driven slowly; if time is no ob- 
ject, you will probably walk while this can- 
yon is in view. 

Well within the park we become con- 
scious of the rise in elevation, and about 
three miles before reaching the rim of the 
crater the real pull begins. The rim eleva- 
tion is 6,239 feet. 

Crater Lake is the only lake of its variety 
in the United States. As the name im- 
plies, the lake lies in the crater of an extinct 
volcano. It has been called: "The Sea 
of Silence." 

It is well that I am limited to a shorl 
space on each place mentioned in this 
book, for it is a great temptation to write 
pages of enthusiastic accounts of Crater 
Lake. I can conceive of nothing more 
interesting or more beautiful in nature. 
The colour is indescribable. The water 
lies 1,000 feet below the rim of the crater, 
and is 2,000 feet deep. 

An excellent trail leads down to the 
water's edge and the descent may be made 
either on horseback or on foot; the walk is 



70 SEEING THE WEST 

absolutely easy. There are launches and 
rofwboats on the lake, which tempt one to 
explore this most unusual and exquisite 
body of water from end to end, or side to 
side; the lake is about five miles in diame- 
ter. Places to be visited are Wizard 
Island, the Phantom Ship, and the various 
caves in the walls of the crater, walls 
which lift their towering heads from 1,456 
feet to 8,156 feet into the clear, glistening, 
deep-blue sky. 

Guests are accommodated in the park 
in tents, or at the hotel, which though not 
completed is in use. The hotel stands on 
the rim and the front windows command 
a superb view. 

The trip around the rim is not to be 
compared with anything else that I know; 
it is a unique experience; it is as impossible 
to write of it as it is to speak of it; one could 
give no adequate idea of it. Go and see 
it for yourself. 

The distant views on all sides are superb, 
as are the wooded valleys of the park. 

Plenty of time should be allowed here; 



THE NORTHWEST 71 

for the real nature lover, there is mountain 
climbing to the heart's content, and for 
those who are less strong, the never-ending 
changes of light and shadow, with all the 
glory which colour can give. 



CHAPTER TWO 

MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 

SEATTLE 

SEATTLE is one of the largest and 
most energetic cities of the North- 
west, most beautifully situated on 
Puget Sound, girded by the Cascade and 
Olympic Mountains. 

The city is built on seven hills and is the 
proud possessor of one of the finest of har- 
bours, a triple harbour one might almost 
say, for the great salt harbour proper is 
connected by canal to Lake Union and 
again to the great Lake Washington, some 
twenty miles long, thus giving an inland 
fresh-water harbour of great value. 

Seattle's tallest building, to the tower 
of which one gladly mounts for the superb 
views, is only surpassed by the tall build- 
ings of New York City. Seattle maintains 

72 



THE NORTHWEST 73 

thirty -four picturesque parks and connects 
them by splendid highways. Scenically, as 
in many other ways, this city ranks very 
high. 

TACOMA 

Tacoma is an industrial seaport, beauti- 
fully situated on Puget Sound, of which it 
commands a fine view. Here one sees the 
Cascade Mountains, and has one of the 
finest views possible of that truly noble 
mountain, Rainier, that is, if the traveller 
has chosen the right time of the year. I 
have sat and waited day after day in mid- 
summer just to get a glimpse of any moun- 
tain, and failed, but a return trip in the 
spring fully repaid me. 

Point Defiance Park should be visited, 
and the Ferry Museum, which contains an 
interesting collection of Indian baskets, 
domestic utensils, canoes, and implements 
of hunting and war. 

MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 

This park is situated in western Wash- 
ington, about 55 miles from Seattle and 42 



74 SEEING THE WEST 

miles from Tacoma. When the atmos- 
phere is clear the mountain can be seen 
more than a hundred miles away ; it has an 
altitude of 14,408 feet and one of the largest 
glacial systems in the world radiating from 
any single peak. 

An excellent automobile highway has 
been built from Seattle and Tacoma to the 
park, and trips are made daily, in good 
cars. The southern part of the park is 
reached by rail to Ashford, on the Tacoma 
Eastern R. R. (Chicago, Milwaukee and 
St. Paul Railroad), thence via automobile 
stage to Longmire Springs, in the park. 
The northern part of the park is reached 
by rail to Fairfax, on the Northern Pacific 
Railroad, and by trails from there in; or 
from Enumclaw R. R. Station and from 
there by automobile. 

By far the finest entrance is the southern 
or Nisqually River entrance via Longmire 
Springs and the great Nisqually Glacier. 
The fine Government road running through 
the park winds back and forth, beside 
the lovely Nisqually River, through fine 



THE NORTHWEST 75 

forests, up the heavily wooded mountain- 
side, past stretches of brilliant wild flowers, 
stopping for one superb view after another, 
until the great Nisqually Glacier is seen 
close by; here we reach the end of the old 
motor road; from here the trip had to be 
made by stage or on horseback a few years 
ago, the highway ending where the eternal 
snows began, but to-day the splendid motor 
road goes all the way to Paradise Valley. 
The traveller who ha^ been fortunate 
enough to take this trip will never forget 
it. The climb is a steep one, 1,557 feet 
from Nisqually Glacier to Paradise Valley 
the road is a one-way road only, all cars 
leaving must pass out before the entering 
cars are admitted. 

The Narada Falls are visited on the way 
up the mountain, then comes Inspiration 
Point, where a wonderful view of the Ta- 
toosh Range is had; the road zigzags back 
and forth, each view of the noble Rainier 
more lovely than the last, until we arrive 
at Paradise Valley and Paradise Inn, where 
we are well cared for, be our stay a day, a 



76 SEEING THE WEST 

week, or a month. From here the moun- 
tain towers above us, 8,700 feet, looking 
as enormous as it did from below. 

The season of tourist travel is confined 
largely to June, July, August, September, 
and the first part of October, although 
parties of tourists enter the park for snow- 
shoeing and winter sports. The ideal time 
is early in August, when the wild flowers 
are at their best; I have seen the valley 
at this time, with a quivering cover of red, 
white, and blue; the exquisite deer-tooth lily, 
the blue lupin, and the flaming red of the 
Indian paint brush. I am told that there 
are 300 varieties of wild flowers in this park. 

The summit of the mountain is accessible 
from Paradise Valley, and from St. Elmo 
Pass, on the northern side. The difficulty 
of the ascent depends largely upon the 
condition of the snow fields, which varies 
from year to year. It is dangerous and 
should not be attempted unless the party is 
accompanied by an official guide. 

Campers are made welcome and are pro- 
vided with all sorts of conveniences, from 



THE NORTHWEST 77 

the simplest canvas tent to the fine elec- 
trically lighted and heated tents. Those 
who wish the full camping experience may 
buy groceries at the pavilion and do their 
own cooking over open fires. While at the 
same time those who wish the regular hotel 
comforts can have them at the inn. 
Guides, horses, and outfits are furnished by 
the Rainier National Park Company to 
those desiring to take long or short trail 
outings. In recent years the trails have 
been extended and new trails are opened 
each season; we are told that they now 
extend over 150 miles. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR MOUNTAIN CLIMBING 

The western part of the United States is 
so full of wonderful mountain peaks that 
the desire to climb one or more is sure to 
be one of the results of a western trip. 

There are many important rules to be 
observed before undertaking one of these 
ascents. Firstly, those who intend visiting 
any of the national parks should be care- 
ful to go well supplied with warm clothing, 



78 SEEING THE WEST 

including warm sleeping apparel. Proper 
boots are essential ; they should be made of 
good heavy material and have thick, strong 
soles. Skirts cannot be worn in real moun- 
tain climbing, either bloomers or knicker- 
bockers are necessary. The latter garment 
one sees so many of the women campers 
wearing that they are not at all conjspicu- 
ous. It is a great convenience to have 
with you a shoulder strap with which to 
fasten on the extra jacket or sweater neces- 
sary for use on the crest; arrange to have 
nothing in the hands but the stout walking 
stick which is indispensable. 

Under no consideration should any party 
start out to climb any of the great moun- 
tains without the aid of a registered guide. 
The trails may easily be lost, especially 
so as they lead frequently over snow fields 
where the footprints melting from day to 
day make a full and accurate knowledge 
absolutely essential. Again, there are im- 
portant rules as to hours of starting and 
arriving, in order to avoid being overtaken 
by dark, or in case of being overtaken by 



THE NORTHWEST 79 

one of the many sudden, blinding snow- 
storms; also a knowledge of how fast or 
how slowly one should climb, what food 
and drink should be taken, etc., etc., is 
necessary. Real mountain climbing is not 
in any way like an ordinary tramp, in fact, 
as we are told of something else : It is not 
by any to be entered into unadvisedly or 
lightly, but reverently, discreetly, advisedly, 
and soberly. 

Where it is a possible thing, those who 
contemplate climbing a real mountain 
should spend several days in the higher 
altitudes of the mountain regions, climbing 
about the foothills and becoming accus- 
tomed to the rarefied atmosphere. Strong 
stimulants, tea and coffee, should not be 
taken, and no heavy, fried food eaten while 
preparing to climb. 

To those who wish further information 
on this subject, again I suggest that they 
write to the Department of the Interior, 
or to the National Parks Association, 
either of which places will send full detailed 
information. 



CHAPTER THREE 

LAKE CHELAN AND THE 
COLUMBIA RIVER REGION 

LAKE CHELAN 

IN THE Cascade Range, in north> 
central Washington, lies a remarkably 
beautiful and, at present, little-known 
lake. This exquisite body of water, some 
50 miles long and about one and a half 
miles wide, nestles in an ancient glacial 
cirque basin 1,075 feet above sea level, with 
peaks one mile high surrounding it. Little 
has been said of this region heretofore be- 
cause of its inaccessibility, but to-day it is 
easily reached by the Great Northern R. R. 
From Wenatchee a train trip of a little 
more than one hour beside the lovely 
Columbia River takes you to Chelan 
Station, and from there an auto-stage takes 

80 



THE NORTHWEST 81 

you the last four miles to the foot of the 
lake. 

Hotels have been built at both the upper 
and lower end of the lake, where you will 
be taken good care of. But the thing to 
do here is to take one of the camping trips 
and see the magnificence of the surrounding 
country; the Field Hotel at the head of the 
lake arranges these trips, providing all the 
necessities for a very reasonable price. 

Boats of all varieties are to be had on 
the lake; only those who cannot spare the 
time to see the lake in the more leisurely 
way should use the motor launches, for this 
beautiful, green, river-like lake should not 
be hurried over; if you are on it for sunset 
you will not be satisfied until you have had 
a glorious sunrise the same way. 

I am told that the fishing, in the many 
streams which empty into the lake, is 
unusually fine. 

Those who consider going to Lake Che- 
lan should write to the Great Northern 
R. R. for their excellent literature on the 
subject, also read Walter Prichard Eaton's 



82 SEEING THE WEST 

"Green Trails and Upland Pastures," from 
which I should like to quote several pages 
if space were unlimited. 

THE GRAND COULEE* 

"In the heart of the vast lava plains 
which occupy a large part of the States of 
Washington, Idaho, and Oregon, lies the 
Grand Coulee, a natural feature of grand- 
eur and wild beauty which is well worthy 
of a place among the wonder sights of 
America, but which is practically unknown 
and un visited at present. . . . 

"The Grand Coulee is a dry gorge or 
canyon, cut by the Columbia River, when 
it was diverted from its course ages ago 
in the glacial period. . . . 

"It extends nearly 100 miles across a 
part of the so-called *Big Bend' region of 
the Columbia River. . . 

"This enormous dry canyon, with its 
numerous beautiful lakes and its site of a 
great prehistoric waterfall, which was as 

*Mr. Winthrop Haynes, "The Grand Coiilee," published 
in American Forestry for May, 1914. 



THE NORTHWEST 83 

high as the Victoria Falls of the Zambesi 
River in Africa and of much greater extent, 
may be visited by tourists travelling over 
the Northern Pacific Railway, by leaving 
the main line at Spokane and travelling 
over the branch line 125 miles to Coulee 
City, a small town situated on the level 
floor of the Upper Coulee, just at the point 
to get most of the interesting views of this 
curious region." 

Here guests can get comfortable accom- 
modations, and from here make the various 
trips by automobile, carriage, horseback, 
or on foot. One should see, first, the site 
of the ancient cataract, with its 400- to 440- 
foot wall, which separates the Upper from 
the Lower Coulee. About four miles fur- 
ther on one comes to the brink of the 
western margin, and following a short dis- 
tance a wonderful panorama is disclosed, 
hummocks and hollows, lakes and pools, 
some of clear and some of strongly saline 
water. 

The basalt rock of the cliffs turns a rusty 
brown under the effects of the weather, 



84 SEEING THE WEST 

and is frequently covered with orange or 
greenish-yellow lichens in great patches, so 
that the cliffs are a glorious riot of colour. 

The eastern branch of the Lower Coulee 
is in many respects the most interesting 
and beautiful, because it is comparatively 
narrow, and a large part of it is occupied 
by a long lake bordered by vertical cliffs; 
this is called Deep Lake. A charming walk 
of about two miles takes one to this part. 

A visit to this region is a unique expe- 
rience. 

THE COLUMBIA RIVER 

The Columbia River is the great river 
of the Far West, it is especially interesting 
historically; the mere name, to those of us 
in the East, recalls the old cry of "54°-40' 
or fight," the slogan of the Democratic 
Convention of 1844, which elected James 
K. Polk President of the United States, 
when this motto was inscribed upon its 
banner. The story of the " Oregon Claims " 
makes interesting reading indeed, and his- 
torv has shown us how the matter was 



THE NORTHWEST 85 

settled without "fight." This beautiful 
river means much to the Northwest to-day. 

Taking the famous Columbia River 
Highway from Portland and going west- 
ward, the traveller finds himself shortly 
in Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia 
River, and so on to the Pacific Ocean. 

There are many trips to the beach from 
Portland; at Astoria the great water craft 
attract attention; here the river is five miles 
wide and there are fine fisheries. Across 
the river from Astoria and extending from 
Columbia to Willapa Harbour is a peninsula 
known as North Beach. This is a popular 
summer resort, with a superb beach, an un- 
broken stretch of sand 26 miles long and from 
200 to 400 feet wide, according to the tides. 

Any amount of exploring may be done 
on the coast of Oregon, which is wild, 
rugged, and wooded in places almost to the 
water's edge. 

Various trips on, or beside, the Willa- 
mette River, which flows into the Columbia 
12 miles below Portland, can be made from 
this city. 



86 SEEING THE WEST 

THE COLUMBIA RIVER TRIP 

The Columbia River trip is made by 
steamer daily, leaving Portland in the early 
morning. (Hours for departing and re- 
turning on such trips are not given, as they 
change from time to time, and are easily 
obtained in the office of any of the hotels.) 

The steamers go all the way up to the 
Dalles, through most unusual scenery. 
The snow-crowned tops of the great moun- 
tains of the Cascade Range, with their 
glaciers and dashing mountain streams, 
greet the eye from time to time, while here 
and there magnificent cataracts lend ex- 
citement; add to this the unending mystery 
of the deep, dark canyons and gorges, 
and what more can one ask for a river 
trip.f^ 

The Pillars of Hercules are twin monu- 
ments of great height, one rising almost 
from the water's edge and the other 
separated by a distance of but a few feet. 
Castle Rock, which, we are told, was a 
lookout station for the Indians, rises 1,146 



THE NORTHWEST 87 

feet above the river. This rock was not 
scaled by white men until 1901. 

The waters of the Multonomah Falls 
have a sheer drop of 700 feet into a great 
rock basin. These are the finest falls on 
the Columbia River. The spray -filled air 
gives out beautiful rainbow colours. 

Oneonta Gorge, a little farther up the 
river, is like a great garden in the spring 
of the year; it leads back into the hills for 
about a mile, and is carpeted with exquisite 
wild flowers and ferns. 

We are told that at the Cascades, 45 
miles east of Portland, a natural bridge 
once spanned the river, the ruins of which 
now lie in the river bed, obstructing the 
flow and impeding navigation. The story 
as told by Balch in his "Bridge of the 
Gods" is as follows: "The red men tell 
how Mount Hood and Mount Adams, 
situated on opposite sides of the river, en- 
gaged in controversy, leading to a quarrel, 
and they resolved to engage in combat. 
Advancing to a common centre, they met 
on the bridge. Their combined weight 



88 SEEING THE WEST 

was too much for the structure and it 
crumbled beneath its load. The conflict 
was thus avoided, and the peaks returned 
to their respective places." 

A canal has been constructed through 
these rapids, permitting steamers to pass. 

THE COLUMBIA RIVER HIGHWAY 

Probably few visitors to Portland fail 
to take this justly famous drive; certainly 
none should fail to take it. Here has been 
built a magnificent boulevard reaching 
from Portland to the Pacific on the west 
and extending to Central Oregon on the 
east, following the bank of the lovely 
Columbia River. "The Road of Falling 
Waters" it has been called, on account of 
the many magnificent waterfalls passed 
en route; of these "The Multinomah Falls" 
are the most famous. In scenic grandeur 
it recalls the Alps, the Rhine, and southern 
Italy, with all the wild bigness of the 
Rockies. It is a wonderful bit of engineer- 
ing, in some places the road being cut 
through the living rock; again fine concrete 



THE NORTHWEST 89 

bridges span gorges and narrow valleys; 
to the south may be seen that most pic- 
turesque of mountains. Mount Hood, and 
to the north, kingly Mount Rainier, Mount 
Ajdams, and Mount St. Helens. Driving 
eastward one passes over 60 miles of 
towering cliffs and sparkling waterfalls. 

The highway at Crown Point is 700 
feet above the river and gives the traveller 
a superb view; from here on it drops grad- 
ually until Bonneville is reached, where 
those who wish may visit the great fish 
hatchery; then on through the tunnel at 
Mitchell's Point to the sunken forests of the 
Colorado, where I am told that giant trees 
are seen beneath the waters, finally reach- 
ing the beautiful Hood River Valley. 

PORTLAND 

Portland is a -city of peculiar charm; 
built upon rolling ground, between the 
Cascade Mountains and the ocean, with its 
two exceptionally beautiful rivers, it is 
provided with unusually fine scenery. 
The Rose Festival, held each year in June, 



90 SEEING THE WEST 

has attracted great attention, Portland is 
called "The Rose City," and it justifies its 
name, for verily, to see the city at this time 
is like finding a metropolis hidden in a 
fairy garden. 

Back of the city, or rather to the west, 
rises Council Crest, which commands a 
splendid view of the city, the rivers, and 
(when it is not foggy) the surrounding 
country. Travellers who cannot arrange 
to stay in Portland may get a lasting im- 
pression of its charm by stopping over a 
few hours and motoring, or going by trolley, 
to this spot. 

Council Crest is merely a pleasure park, 
but there is an observatory there from 
which may be had an excellent view of the 
fine snow-clad mountains of the Cascade 
Range. I have seen from here on a clear 
day. Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens, 
Mount Adams, Mount Jefferson, and Mount 
Hood. These white monarchs stand far 
enough apart to be utterly unspoiled; 
each is entirely different in outline from 
the others, and the lights and shadows 



THE NORTHWEST 91 

and cloud effects from here cannot be 
excelled. 

Mount Hood, 11,225 feet, is reached by 
automobile from Portland. It is a 55 mile 
drive through the most lovely forested 
country, such cedar trees as one does not 
often see, wonderful firs draped in long 
moss, stumps of old trees long since dead, 
with a heavy growth of young green shoots 
sprouting from them such as one sees in 
California. The last time I was in Port- 
land I had waited a week for a clear day 
to make this trip; as the clear day did not 
come, I made it in a drizzling mist, hoping 
all day that the clouds would lift just long 
enough to let us see the mountain, even if 
only the top; it did not clear all day, but 
still that drive stands out in my memory 
as one of the loveliest I ever took; the mist 
in the forest, a dewdrop on every cedar 
tip and fern frond, the waving to and fro 
of the glistening boughs, and the stillness 
and mj^stery of everything, made it an 
unforgettable occasion. There is a Govern- 
ment camp on the south slope and the re- 



92 SEEING THE WEST 

turn trip can be made in a day. For those 
with time to stay, "Cloud Cap Inn," on 
the north side, may be better. There are 
a number of trips from the inn to points of 
interest, but the climb to the summit is 
the most popular. This is said to be the 
easiest peak in the west to climb. Guides 
are necessary here, as for the other moun- 
tains. 

OREGON CAVES 

(national monument) ' 

In the far southwestern corner of Oregon, 
on a slope of the Coast Range, there is a 
group of limestone caves which were set 
aside as a national monument, by Presi- 
dential Proclamation, under the above 
title. 

There are two entrances to the caves, one 
above and one below. The stalagmites and 
stalactites are unusually fine. The vaults 
and passages are long, and there is one 
chamber 25 feet across, the ceiling of which 
is said to *be 200 feet high. For the trav- 
eller in this region a trip to the caVes will 
prove most interesting. 



PART FOUR 

CALIFORNIA 

Note — For convenience this state is here 
divided into four sections as follows: 
NoRTHEKN California 
San Francisco and Environs 
Central California 

« 

Southern California 



CHAPTER ONE 

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA 

MOUNT SHASTA 

WITHOUT doubt, the point of 
greatest interest in the extreme 
north of CaHfornia is Mount Shas- 
ta, which rises just at the juncture of the 
Sierra Nevada and the Cascade Ranges, 
near the head of the Sacramento Valley. 

Mount Shasta is a huge extinct volcano, 
14,380 feet high; it is most accessible from 
Sissons, from whence the trip may be made 
by automobile (12 miles) to the summit. 
Taking Sissons for headquarters, there are 
innumerable trips to be made, on foot, 
horseback, or by motor. Soda Springs, 
Castle Lake, the McCloud River, etc. Mr. 
Muir says of the trip to the summit: 
"During the bright days of midsummer the 

95 



96 SEEING THE WEST 

ascent of Shasta is only a long, safe saunter 
without fright or nerve strain, or even 
serious fatigue, to those in sound health. 
Setting out from Sissons on horseback, 
accompanied by a guide leading a pack 
animal with provisions, blankets, and other 
necessaries, you follow a trail that leads 
up to the edge of the timber line, where 
you camp for the night, eight or ten miles 
from the hotel, at an elevation of about 
10,000 feet. The next day, rising early, 
you may push on to the summit and return 
to Sissons. . . . The view from the 
top in clear weather extends to an immense 
distance in every direction. . . ." 

The same writer highly recommends the 
trip round the base of Shasta, about one 
hundred miles; after reading his "Steep 
Trails'* one feels very sure that no one 
could know more about this Shasta coun- 
try than Mr. Muir for he seems to have 
walked over every inch of it. 

The railroad track runs close to the 
Soda Springs, in fact so near that one must 
leave the car to see the Springs. Travel- 



CALIFORNIA 97 

ling either north or south from here the 
views of the mountain are exceptionally 
beautiful, for Shasta is one of the pictur- 
esque, single-peak mountains; rising in 
solitary grandeur from a low, lava plain, 
it is thought by many to be California's 
most beautiful mountain; snow-clad and 
supreme it stands here; it has been called 
the Pole-star of the landscape. 

To the south of Shasta County lies a 
beautiful and little-known region — the 
Feather River Canyon, which has been 
opened up by the Western Pacific R. R. 

We are told that the rivers and streams 
fairly team with bass and trout; I give the 
suggestion for what it may be worth, as I 
know no one who has fished these waters. 

The northern section of California has 
one great attraction: it is far less crowded 
than the southern sections; here real ex- 
ploring may still be indulged in. 

LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK 

In the year 1914 Mount Lassen, after 
200 years of quiet, burst forth with a 



98 SEEING THE WEST 

series of eruptions covering a period of 
19 months. 

Mount Lassen has an altitude of 10,437 
feet; unlike the more familiar examples of 
volcanic mountains, Vesuvius and Fuji- 
yama, Lassen has not one large peak, but 
four distinct summits, any of which may be 
ascended. The view from the top is one 
of wonder. Seventy miles away gleams 
Mount Shasta; across a line of cones and 
craters 150 miles long sparkles the diamond 
crown of Mount Pitt. Westward and 
southward a vast ocean of ridges falls 
lower and lower into the Sacramento 
Valley. 

*'In 1906, in order to conserve the best 
examples of recent volcanism, Lassen Peak 
and Cinder Cone, in the same region, were 
set aside as national monuments, but in 
1916, after the great eruptions of Mount 
Lassen, a reservation of 124 square miles 
in this region, including both peaks, was 
made a national park. 

"It is believed by scientists that the 
volcano will now remain quiet; this will 



CALIFORNIA 99 

in all likelihood become a point of great 
interest to the American traveller, being 
the only volcano which has been in erup- 
tion in the national boundaries. Many 
tourists have already visited it. The park, 
though undeveloped as yet, has other 
charms, such as forests, lakes, and fine 
streams, but the volcano will remain the 
chief interest for some time to come."* 

THE devil's half ACRE 

Hot Springs Valley and the geyser coun- 
try extend some 50 miles east of Mount 
Lassen, as far as Mountain Meadows, and 
in this stretch there are more than 200 
geysers. This region is well named " The 
Devil's Kitchen," or, as above, "The Devil's 
Half Acre." "Boiling Lake, two miles from 
the geysers, is a pool of hot water 600 feet 
long and 300 feet wide, lying between two 
streams of lava and with banks 100 feet 
high," from which there seems to be but 
one small outlet. 



*Mr. Yard. 



100 SEEING THE WEST 

LAKE TAHOE 

Going west by the Southern Pacific Rail- 
way we go so near the beautiful Lake 
Tahoe that those who can will do well to 
stop at Truckee, and taking the train of the 
Lake Tahoe Railway and Transportation 
Company, follow this lovely mountain 
stream, the Truckee, up to the lake (15 
miles). You will be made most welcome 
and have every comfort at the Tahoe Tav- 
ern. 

This place is mentioned on page 105 
where its accessibility by automobile from 
Sacramento is given, the state road thus 
reaching the lake at its southern end and 
taking the visitors to Al-Tahoe, another 
fine hotel from which the various trips 
may equally well be made. Small cot- 
tages, with private baths, also open-air 
sleeping cabins, can be rented by the day, 
week, or month. 

Fine automobile roads lead in the various 
directions and there are numerous trips 
to be made. Tamarack Lake makes a nice 



CALIFORNIA 101 

day's jaunt, taking a picnic luncheon. 
Cascade Lake and Eagle Falls can be 
reached either by water or by automobile. 
Fallen Leaf Lake makes another lovely 
drive. Horseback trips are plentiful, and 
the boating is most lovely. 

For the fisherman, I am told that one 
June day here will bring him back year 
after year. 

Lake Tahoe lies 6,225 feet above sea 
level, it is 23 miles long and 13 miles wide. 
Its beaut}'' cannot well be exaggerated. 
It is as lovely as Italy's Lake Como, and 
while the mountains rise round Como to a 
height of 7,000 feet, these great peaks of 
the Sierra Nevadas have an elevation of 
11,120 feet. 

It is quite impossible to do justice to the 
Tahoe region in short space. There are 
scores of lakes, linked like a chain, and 
lying all round Tahoe. 

To the aviator this section must look 
like a glorious breastplate : Tahoe the great 
central stone with the myriads of smaller 
lakes round it and the hundreds of glisten- 



102 SEEING THE WEST 

ing, winding rivers making the platinum 
setting, the whole lying lightly upon the 
breast of mother earth. 

There are numbers of hotels, boarding- 
houses, and camps in this lake region, but 
do not let this make you think that it is 
spoiled by crowding, there are not yet as 
many houses as there are lakes. 

Sacramento, the capital of California, 
is situated on the east bank of the Sacra- 
mento River. The city is finely laid out, 
with wide, handsome streets. The most 
important building, which attracts the eye 
before the traveller reaches the city, is the 
State Capitol, with a beautiful dome, which 
recalls that of the National Capitol. The 
surrounding country is interesting. From 
Sacramento down to the mouth of the river 
the banks are like one great garden. Here 
we get our first view of the beautifully kept 
olive groves, the soft gray-green of the 
foliage reminding one of Italy. 

From here many charming trips can be 
made, Sacramento being one of the railway 
centres for the interior of California. Elec- 



CALIFORNIA 103 

trie lines also run from here in almost every 
direction. The trip from this city to San 
Francisco by boat is well worth while. 
There is a line of steamers which makes the 
round trip from San Francisco several times 
a week. 

LODI AND THE CALAVERAS BIG TREES 

About 30 miles south of Sacramento lies 
Lodi, one of the largest grape-growing 
centres of the state, and from here, by the 
Valley Spring branch of the Southern 
Pacific Railroad, may be reached the 
Calaveras Big Trees and the mining dis- 
trict made familiar to many through Mark 
Twain's "Jumping Frog of Calaveras" and 
Bret Harte's "Bellringer of Angels." These 
writers both lived in the small town of 
Angels, Calaveras County. 

The Calaveras Grove of Big Trees is the 
farthest north of any of the Big Tree 
groves, and was the first of these forests 
discovered. Here may be seen some of the 
finest specimens of this woodland monarch. 
There are about 100 trees ranging from 300 



104 SEEING THE WEST 

to 375 feet in height and from 70 to 90 
feet in circumference. From here one 
may drive to the most important of all the 
groves in point of number, South, or Stanis- 
laus, Grove, where the trees are not nearly 
as large, but where there are said to be 
more than 1,000 of them. In both of 
these groves, as in the well-known Mara- 
posa Groves, one sees traces of the great 
damage done by fire. The trees are now 
carefully guarded, and it is to be hoped 
that fires from carelessness may never 
happen again. The average American 
citizen is becoming more and more awak- 
ened to the value of the great nature won- 
ders and their preservation each year, and 
yet how recent is the tragedy of the Hetcli 
Hetchy Valley. 

At Murphys, in the Calaveras district, 
there is quite a remarkable cave, discovered 
by the miners in 1850, where there are 
some curious formations and stalactites. 

A wonderful trip by motor from Sacra- 
mento is made via the State Road, or what 
is locally known as *' The Wishbone Route." 



CALIFORNIA 105 

The drive covers 275 miles, going from 
Sacramento to Donner Lake and Truckee, 
then 15 miles along the beautiful Truckee 
River to Al-Tahoe, that most enticing place 
mentioned on page 100. On the return 
trip the drive follows the lake shore for 
about 25 miles, coming back to the State 
Road and through Placerville to Sacra- 
mento. 



CHAPTER TWO 

CENTRAL CALIFORNIA 

THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 

THE usual entrances to the Yosemite 
Valley are via Fresno and Merced. 
The best time to visit this park is 
perhaps April or May, while the falls are 
still full. From Merced to El Portal (the 
gate), the Yosemite Valley Railway runs 
some 70 miles along the banks of the Mer- 
ced River, for which trip the right-hand side 
of the train is best (right as one stands 
facing the engine) ; the view is better from 
this side. The train crosses and recrosses 
this gaily-romping river, and the valley 
view changes continually, the walls becom- 
ing quite high in places and the river foam- 
ing rapids. 

Reaching El Portal in the late afternoon, 

106 



CALIFORNIA 107 

one climbs up the winding footpath through 
a picturesque tangle of brush to the Hotel 
Del Portal, where all the necessary com- 
forts are provided. After passing the 
night in this delightful spot, one is taken 
early the next morning into the valley 
proper, by a road which follows the winding 
course of the Merced River, and from 
which giant granite walls reach up toward 
the sky on either side. 

Arriving at El Capitan, the great rock 
7,630 feet high which stands, as it were, 
at the inner gate of this Paradise, we learn 
that this granite mountain exhibits to view 
400 acres of bare rock! Yet this is only 
one of many. The Yosemite Valley is 
7 miles long and three quarters of a mile 
wide. It lies 4,060 feet above sea level and 
is enclosed by walls rising from 3,000 to 
4,000 feet above the floor of the valley. 
Many are the delightful trips which may 
be taken here. They are all carefully 
organized and conducted by guides who 
know and love the place. 

Before passing El Capitan we are at- 



108 SEEING THE WEST 

tracted by the exquisite Bridal Veil Falls 
on the opposite side, higher than the high- 
est fall in Switzerland. On the same side 
as El Capitan and beyond, we see the 
Three Brothers; one of these peaks is access- 
ible by trail; from the summit (3,700 feet) 
there is one of the finest views of the valley. 
Next come the Cathedral Spires, and on 
the south side Sentinel Rock and Sentinel 
Dome. North and South Dome are most 
curious and especially interesting. There 
are trails leading to nearly all of these in- 
dividual crests now. 

Of all the falls, the one called, like the 
valley, Yosemite, is the finest. It is the 
highest known fall of its volume. The 
waters dash down one half mile. The fall 
is in three sections, but appears all one at a 
distance. In the early spring, when the 
volume is greatest, the booming of the 
waters is deafening and the force with 
which it strilvcs the ground shakes windows 
one mile away. 

From Yosemite Point, the crest above 
the falls, the view is magnificent, but for 



CALIFORNIA 109 

the full effect of this fall one should walk 
to the foot and look up; the sensation re- 
ceived will not soon be forgotten. 

The flora and fauna are enchanting. 
There are scores of varieties of wild flowers, 
shrubs, ferns, etc. To those interested in 
the botany of the valley, "Yosemite 
Flora," issued by the Department of 
Botany, University of California, will be of 
great value. 

Camping in the Yosemite is more popu- 
lar than life in the hotels, the camps are 
provided with all the necessary comforts. 
Full particulars can be had by writing to 
the Sentinel Hotel, Camp Curry, Camp 
Lost Arrow, or Camp Awahnee. 

Before leaving the valley the Lower 
Drive must surely be taken by those who 
have not had time to take the trip on foot. 
The valley is so small that the floor can be 
pretty thoroughly explored (as far as mere 
sight-seeing goes) in a single drive, and it 
is most pleasing to carry away with us a 
picture of this green spot, starred over with 
the lovely wild flowers; it is like an oasis in 



no SEEING THE WEST 

a desert. The trip up the trail on the 
morrow, leading over the bare, brown face 
of rocky cliffs, will have amid the white of 
the everlasting snows and the sparkling of 
the sunlight in the various falls, only the 
occasional appearing and disappearing of 
this emerald valley threaded by the silver 
stream of the Merced to give it colour. 
The climb to Glacier Point is made cross- 
saddle only, and the traveller who has gone 
out unprepared can rent a skirt by making 
known her want when she engages her 
horse or mule. But before starting on this 
trip which is to take the traveller out of 
the valley, I must mention the drive to the 
lovely Tenaya Canyon and Mirror Lake. 
This is usually taken in the early morning, 
in time to see the sunrise, and fully does 
it repay one; those planning to take the 
Glacier Point Trail usually start this way 
and from here pass Cathedral Rocks, 
Clouds' Rest, etc., to where the horses are 
waiting for the start. Glacier Point is 
7,297 feet above sea level, and between 
3,000 and 4,000 feet above the valley. 



CALIFORNIA 111 



«r 



The trail winds up the east end of the 
valley, past the foot of the beautiful Vernal 
Falls, and up, up, over the top, past the 
splendid Nevada Falls and again over the 
top, zigzagging back and forth, on every 
turn new views greeting the sight. Liberty 
Cap and Mount Star King, as seen from 
the point on this trail known as Panorama 
View, 4,000 feet above the valley, are more 
impressive than words can tell. 

At Glacier Point we find a comfortable 
hotel, with a veranda which makes one 
want to stay indefinitely, so wonderful is 
the view seen from it, with the valley, the 
falls, and ridge after ridge of the snow- 
clad Sierras. From here there are fine 
walks and many fine views to be had. 

WAWONA AND THE MARIPOSA GROVE 

From Glacier Point the trip to Wawona 
is made; the drive leads through beautiful 
woods, via Wawona to the Mariposa Grove 
of Big Trees, where the stage passes 
through the living gateways that have 
been cut through several of these monsters. 



112 SEEING THE WEST 

So much has been written and said of tlie 
Big Trees that I can add nothing. I think 
they are the most impressive sight, except 
perhaps one or two spots in the Far East, 
to be found in the world to-day, and while 
these fine old monuments of Europe are 
the dead ruins of a dead people, these 
great trees are the living monuments of 
a world that was old before Europe was 
born. 

THE HETCH-HETCHY VALLEY 

The Hetch-Hetchy Valley is now being 
dammed below Kolana Rock, to supply 
water to the city of San Francisco. Many 
persons will recall the efforts which were 
made by public- spirited citizens to prevent 
this, and many are still mourning the loss 
of this beautiful canyon as a playground, 
but Robert Sterling Yard tells us, for our 
comfort, that in prehistoric times the 
valley was once a great lake, and that the 
remains of Nature's dam are not far from 
the site of the dam which man is building 
to-day. He adds that, with care, this restor- 



CALIFORNIA 113 

ation may not work out so inappropriately 
as once we feared. 

To the north of the Hetch-Hetchy 
Valley is the Tuolumne Canyon, famous for 
its waterfalls, through whiph the Tuolumne 
River flows to the lovely meadows of 
the same name. These meadows in the 
springtime are like stretches of marvellous 
stained glass, or a freshly laid brilliant 
mosaic, embedded in a surface of jade, 
there is such a riot of colours from the wild 
flowers growing here. The river winding 
its way through the meadows descends in 
a torrent to the Hetch-Hetchy Valley 
almost 5,000 feet below. 

THE SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK 

"This park is the gateway to one of the 
grandest scenic areas in this or any other 
land. 

"Of the 1,156,000 sequoias, young and 
old, which form these groves, 12,000 exceed 
10 feet in diameter, * General Sherman,' the 
largest known tree, being 36.5 feet in diam- 
eter and 279.9 ft. in height. Its exact age 



114 SEEING THE WEST 

cannot be determined without counting 
the rings, but it is probably in excess of 
3,500 years. There are many thousand 
trees in this park which were growing 
thriftily when Christ was born, hundreds 
which were flourishing while Babylon was 
in its prime, several which antedate the 
pyramids on the Egyptian Desert. 

"Well outside the park boundaries and 
overlooking it from the east, the amazing 
craggy Sierras give birth in glacial cham- 
bers to two noble rivers, the Kings River 
and the Kern. The canyons of these 
rivers are practically matchless for the 
wild quality of their beauty and the maj- 
esty of their setting. 

"Unlike many areas of extreme rocky 
character, this is not especially difficult to 
travel, it curiously adapts itself to trails. 
It is an ideal land for the camper, but one 
must go well equipped. There must be 
good guides, good horses, and plenty of 
warm clothing."* 



"Department of the Interior. 



CALIFORNIA 115 

MOUNT WHITNEY 

"The Sierra reaches its mightiest climax 
a few miles east of the present Sequoia 
National Park, in Mount Whitney, the 
highest mountain in the United States. 
Its altitude is 14,501 feet. The journey to 
Whitney's summit is a progress of inspira- 
tion and climax. 

*'From Visalia automobiles carry one 
under the very shadow of the Big Trees. 
Over the park boundaries, into the magic of 
the mountains; up to the headwaters of 
the Kaweah; across the splendours of the 
great Western Divide; into the Kern Valley, 
then up winding passes, skirting precipices, 
edging glaciers to the top."* 

Mount Whitney lies some 90 miles south 
of the Yosemite Valley. It is in this region 
that Congress is considering setting apart 
another large area, 1,600 square miles, to 
be known as "Roosevelt National Park," 
which will embrace both the General Grant 
and the Sequoia National Park. 

*Department of the Interior. 



116 SEEING THE WEST 

The General Grant Park is only 4 square 
miles in area. It was created to protect 
what is believed to be the second largest 
tree in the world, "General Grant," with 
a diameter of 35 feet and a height of 264 
feet. 

Were it not for a narrow strip of land 
which is privately owned, and which sepa- 
rates this park from the Sequoia National 
Park, they would be one. 

ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK 
PCOPOSED SITE 

The section of California lying east and 
south of the above chain of parks, the 
Yosemite, the General Grant, and the 
Sequoia, were it in any other state than 
California, so full of scenic attractions, 
would be the show place of the entire re- 
gion, but so far, to the average American 
traveller, it is almost unknown. This great 
Valley, so rich in beautiful rivers, lakes, and 
canyons, is the proposed site of the Roose- 
velt National Park. 

In shape it is a long oval, lying north 



CALIFORNIA 117 

and south, bounded on the east by the 
Sierras, with such great peaks as Mount 
Humphreys, 13,972 feet; Mount Darwin, 
13,841 feet; Mount Winchell, 13,749 feet; 
Spht Mountain, 14,051 feet; Striped Moun- 
tain, 13,160 feet; Mount Buxton, 13,118 
feet; Junction Peak, 13,902 feet; Mount 
Tyndall, 14,025 feet; Mount Whitney, 
14,501 feet; and Mount Langley, 14,042 
feet. It is difficult to picture such a wall, 
nine great mountains all connected by 
jagged peaks of almost equal height. In 
this valley are rivers of inconceivable 
beauty, such as the Kings River, the Kern 
River, and the Kaweah, each of which has 
carved superb canyons and, forming lesser 
rivers with their forks, has again carved 
lesser canyons with them. 

The Kings River, rising in the Sierras and 
flowing southward, crosses the valley from 
east to west almost at its centre, sending 
tributaries in all directions. The Kings 
River Canyon was called by Mr. Muir a 
second Yosemite; one should have that 
great naturalist's gift of expression to de- 



118 SEEING THE WEST 

scribe this region. The walls of the Kings 
River Canyon are not as precipitous as 
those of the Yosemite and there are not the 
great falls, but the floor of the canyon is 
wider and it is more extensive, and the 
mountains are higher. 

The Kings River has many branches, 
such as the Roaring River, Arrow Creek, 
Woods Creek, Bubbs Creek, Boulder Creek, 
etc., etc., streams to gladden the heart of 
any fisherman, and bordered by such 
meadows as only mountain streams can 
produce. 

The main river consists of three forks 
and it is hard to say which is the most 
lovely. The canyon of the middle fork, 
"The Tehipite," is not as easily reached as 
is the south, but, judging by what Mr. 
Yard says of it, it is worth going through 
a good deal to see it. This enthusiastic 
nature lover, author of "The Book of 
National Parks," says: "Time will not 
dim my memory of Tehipite Dome, the 
august valley and the leaping, singing river 
which it overlooks. Well short of the 



CALIFORNIA 119 

Yosemite in the kind of beauty that plunges 
the observer into silence, the Tehipite 
Valley far excells it in bigness, power, and 
majesty. 

"Lookout Point on the north rim, a 
couple of miles south of the Dome, gave us 
oiu- first sensation. Three thousand feet 
above the river, it offered by far the grand- 
est valley view I have looked upon, for the 
rim view into Yosemite by comparison is 
not so grand, as it is beautiful." 

The Tehipite Dome, the same writer 
tells us, compares favourably with El 
Capitan in height and prominence, and it 
occupies a similar position at the valley's 
western gate. 

To the south fork of the Kings River the 
traveller is taken to Sanger by the Southern 
Pacific Railroad, and from there auto- 
mobiles run daily. 

An electric line runs from Visalia to 
Lemon Cove and there again one is met by 
automobiles and driven to Juanita Mead- 
ows, where camping accommodations 
have been arranged and from whence in- 



120 SEEING THE WEST 

numerable trails may be taken. If you 
have gone via Hume and stopped in the 
camp overnight, you may leave by pack 
train early the next morning and make the 
trip eastward, beside the river, to Horse 
Corral, where you camp again, and the 
third day, from Lookout Point, the descent 
is made to the canyon. Passing down a 
three-mile zigzag trail you make a drop of 
more than three thousand feet, while one 
beautiful view after another opens out 
before you. At Cedar Creek the floor is 
reached and the river crossed, then comes 
the six-mile ride up the canyon to Camp 
Kaweah, a most beautiful trip. At this 
camp you may stop a day, a week, or in- 
definitely. There are numberless lovely 
spots to be visited, the rivers come tumb- 
ling down the gorges in cascades, or in 
filmy, lace-like falls, and five or six miles 
farther on lies the picturesque Paradise 
Valley. The trail to Bubbs Creek is one 
of the finest, leading eastward and giving 
the view of the great Sierras. A chain of 
glacial lakes lies below the trail and back 



CALIFORNIA 121 

of them the Kearsarge Pinnacles, University 
Peak, etc. Look at your map of Cahfornia 
and see what a marvellous region this is. 
It may be reached in various ways, either 
by the "John Muir Trail" from the north, 
or across the Kearsarge Pass, down to Inde- 
pendence and Lone Pine; or again by going 
back to Horse Corral, camping there and 
leaving the next day for Alta Meadows, 
across to Mineral King, over Franklin Pass, 
and so down into the Kern Canyon. 

The Kearsarge Pass is one of the highest 
of all the Sierra passes, 12,056 feet. It is 
literally on the sharp edge of the moun- 
tain range, so narrow that we are told the 
horse strides it, standing on both sides of 
the range at once; here may be seen the 
contrasting sides of this wonderful range, 
the long, green slope of the west, and the 
steep, bare, rocky descent of the east. 

This great region (Roosevelt Park as we 
hope it is to be), 1,600 square miles, will 
include both the General Grant and the 
Sequoia National Parks; a trail leads from 
here to the Yosemite, California's memorial 



122 SEEING THE WEST 

to Mr. Muir; nothing could have been more 
appropriate, as the trail was the one way 
by which Mr. Muir felt a man could know 
this part of the world, either afoot, or on 
horse or mule back. The southwestern 
area is beautified by the Kaweah River and 
its five forks, and rising between the Ka- 
weah and the Kern rivers is the Western 
Divide. The Kern Valley is said by some 
to exceed the Kings River Valley in beauty. 

The southern portion of the whole great 
interior basin of California is commonly 
known as the San Joaquin Valley. It com- 
prises the San Joaquin, the Tulare, and the 
Kern valleys. Its greatest length is 260 
miles and its width from 30 to 40 miles. 

The Coast Range on the west of the 
valley has an average height of 1,700 feet, 
and the base averages 65 miles in width. 
The Sierra Nevada Range on the east rises, 
as we have seen, to a much greater height. 
Between these two ranges lies as well as the 
San Joaquin, the Sacramento Valley. The 
ranges are connected in the southern part 
of the state at Tehachipi, and in the north- 



CALIFORNIA 123 

ern at Mount Shasta. The length of the 
combined valleys is about 450 miles and 
the width is 55 miles. The Coast Range is 
composed of a multitude of ridges, and is 
intersected by numerous long, narrow, fer- 
tile valleys, Los Angeles, Salinas, Santa 
Clara, Sonoma, etc., etc. 



CHAPTER THREE 

SAN FRANCISCO AND ENVIRONS 

SAN FRANCISCO 

ONE must understand a little of 
the topography of San Francisco 
to appreciate its unusual advan- 
tages. The city is built upon a peninsula, 
which juts northward from the mainland, 
bounded on the south by San Mateo, on 
the east by the San Francisco Bay, and on 
the west by the Pacific Ocean. 

Sausalito is situated upon a peninsula 
jutting southward from the mainland to the 
north, and bounded on the east and west 
as San Francisco is. The opening between 
these two points, one mile wide, is the 
Golden Gate, the world-famous entrance 
to the beautiful San Francisco Bay. Those 
entering by steamer get the best view of 

124 



CALIFORNIA 125 

this great gateway. The bay is 50 miles 
long and ^ve to ten miles wide, and pro- 
vides San Francisco with one of the finest 
harbours in the world. 

SAN FEANCISCO BAY 

The bay is magnificently fortified. 
Points Lobos and Bonita are the two points 
reaching out into the Pacific Ocean, the 
former at the outer point of the crescent, 
which forms Bonita Cove to the north, 
and the latter at the outer point of the 
crescent, which forms South Bay to the 
south. These peninsulas extend like great 
arms into the Pacific Ocean, forming the 
outer bay. At the inner ends are Point 
Diablo and Fort Point, both fortified 
and impressive looking. Those who are 
unable to see the bay from the water should 
not fail to take the Presidio Drive, the 
drive to the U. S. Military Reservation, 
where the most wonderful view may be 
had far out over the ocean. 

The islands which lie in San Francisco 
Bay and are the most noticeable from this 



126 SEEING THE WEST 

city are known as Alcatras, Angel, and 
Yerba Buena Islands. They are the prop- 
erty of the United States Government. 

On Alcatras is the U. S. Military Prison. 
A permit is necessary to visit the island; 
permission may also be had to visit Angel 
Island, where there is a recruiting station. 
Fort McDowell. On Yerba Buena, known 
as Goat Island, there is^ a Government 
Naval Training School. 

The U. S. Military Reservation, known 
as The Presidio, comprises 1,500 acres, 
and lies along the bay for four or five miles. 
This stretch is strongly fortified. Here may 
be seen Fort Wmfield Scott, Fort McDowell. 
Fort Baker, Fort Miley, and Fort Barry. 

THE GOLDEN GATE PARK 

The Golden Gate Park, of more tlian 
1,000 acres, may be reached by almost auN^ 
of the trolley lines; laid out on sand hills 
and reclaimed ground, with one end front- 
ing on the Pacific Ocean, it is beautifully 
planted with many unusual trees and 
plants, shrubs and flowers, and has some 



CALIFORNIA 127 

20 miles of the finest driveways. Points 
of special interest are many: The Japa- 
nese Tea Garden, which really looks 
like a bit of old Japan. Here two dainty 
little Japanese ladies serve tea. Admission 
to the garden is free, but of course one pays 
a small sum for the tea and rice cakes. A 
military band plays in the park on Sundays 
and holiday afternoons. There are some 
good statue^in the grounds: "The Wine 
Press" by Thomas S. Clarke, near the 
front of the museum, is unusually fine. 
In the Memorial Museum there is an es- 
pecially good collection of Japanese ivories, 
Indian basketry, and keramics. The 
Academy of Sciences Museum has very fine 
groups of animals and birds of the Pacific 
Coast. The Fern Glen must not be over- 
looked; here may be seen, growing in the 
open, lovely specimens of the tree fern. 

On a small hill near Stone Lake stands 
Prayer-book Cross, erected by Mr. George 
William Childs!, of Philadelphia, in com- 
memoration of the first English church 
service held on this continent in 1579. 



\ 



ns SEEING THE WEST 

OCEAN BEACH 

Ocean Beach is a favourite resort, sea 
bathing goes on here the year round, but 
by strong and expert swimmers only, the 
currents being dangerous. From the beach 
or the terrace in front of the CHff House 
the famous Seal Rocks are easily seen. Here 
one is at times fortunate enough to he able 
to watch the antics of scores of sea lions. 

A little north of this are the Sutro 
Baths and Sutro Gardens. The picturesque 
Dutch windmills in the Golden Gate Park 
were presented by a private citizen; they 
furnish water for the lakes etc., in the park. 
There are several very pretty artificial 
lakes. 

Of animals, there are about what the 
usual park has, buffalo, deer, elk, etc. 

PANAMA-PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL 
EXPOSITION 

The great Exposition which in 1915 cele- 
brated the opening of the Panama Canal 



CALIFORNIA 129 

and which has now become a part of the 
history of San Francisco, was held upon 
the site now known as the Marina. This 
site comprised a tract of approximately 
625 acres, with almost three miles of water- 
front. So much has been written of the 
beauty of the buildings, the grounds, the 
statuary, etc., that it need not be repeated 
here; those who saw it will not forget it and 
those who were less fortunate will never 
know just what they missed. Through the 
efforts of the San Francisco Arts Associa- 
tion the Fine Arts building has been saved 
for a time; the state of California has taken 
over the California building for a nor- 
mal school. The Exposition Preservation 
League has plans for a fine boulevard 
which is to extend from Fort Mason to the 
Presidio, connecting with the present 
boulevard in the Presidio. 

MOUNT TAMALPAIS 

From San Francisco the trip to Mount 
Tamalpais must be made, crossing the bay 
to Sausalito and from there taking the 



130 SEEING THE WEST 

electric car to Mill Valley, where one 
passes some charming homes. From here 
the ascent is made (about eight miles) by 
what we are told is the "crookedest" rail- 
road in the world. Superb views are had 
during this climb, one moment looking out 
across the blue waters of the bay, and the 
next piercing the black depths of the forest, 
only to turn again to the sparkling sun- 
shine in another moment. The view from 
the summit fully repays one for the trip, the 
Pacific Ocean stretching as far as the eye 
can reach on the one side, with the ships 
coming and going, and the San Francisco 
Bay, with its fascinating shore lines, on the 
other side. 

MUIR WOODS 

From a station part way up Mount 
Tamalpais a branch line runs to Muir 
Woods, one of the most beautiful bits of 
redwood forest to be seen anywhere. I 
cannot worthily describe it, one must see it. 
Possibly the greatest charm of the place 
lies in the fact that these trees rise tall and 



CALIFORNIA 131 

erect above what to us in the East would 
be in itself a fine forest of oak, beech, 
maple, etc., the rich, variegated foliage of 
the deciduous trees making a most charm- 
ing contrast to the deep, dark green of 
the redwood. The trees grow in circular 
clusters, which are explained by the theory 
that the present trees are all off-shoots 
from giant trees which had stood there at 
some time past. What giants they must 
have been! These circles are from 30 to 
60 feet in diameter, the trees themselves 
are about 10 feet in diameter. 

An exquisite stream flows through the 
woods and there is a fine driveway, but 
to enjoy it to the full one should walk 
through. It is said that the redwood does 
not thrive where the salt fog does not reach 
it; here the soft, misty veil, which floats 
over and filters into the woods from time 
to time, is another of its charms. 

It is to Mr. Wifliam Kent, one of Cali- 
fornia's most worthy citizens, that we owe 
this National Monument. He bought it, 
paying $80,000 for it, that it might not be 



132 SEEING THE WEST 

destroyed, and presented it to the United 
States; having discovered an old law en- 
abling the United States to accept gifts of 
"American Antiquities," this collection 
was presented and accepted as such. The 
wish of the people was to call the woods, 
Kent Woods, but the modest donor in- 
sisted that it be named for Mr. John Muir, 
and so it is that it appears upon the map 
to-day as Muir Woods. 

BELVEDERE 

Another delightful short trip from San 
Francisco is to cross the bay to Belvedere. 
This little mountain of a peninsula rises 
up out of the water in the most picturesque 
way, and is one of the loveliest spots any- 
where in this region. Beautiful homes, 
built up and down the sides of the hills, 
each with a garden more alluring than the 
last, makes the whole seem a veritable 
Eden. The planting goes down to the 
water's edge — a riot of colour, making the 
whole seem one great garden, entwined 
about and laced together by the exquisite 



CALIFORNIA 133 

green tendrils of thje soft mosses. Here are 
trees of all sorts, and it seemed to me birds 
of all sorts. A merry, happy, singing little 
spot. 

MOUNT DIABLO 

Mount Diablo is the peak which can be 
seen in the distance due east from San 
Francisco; it rises 3,850 feet above sea level. 
A good automobile road leads to the sum- 
mit, and makes a favourite week-end drive. 
The view from the summit is particularly 
fine, because it is so extensive. On a clear 
day a nickel-plated monument is visible, 
through a telescope, on the summit of 
Mount Shasta, 193 miles to the north, 
while to the south one sees as far as Mount 
Whitney, over the great Sacramento and 
San Joaquin valleys. 

^ SONOMA 

Sonoma, some 40 miles north of San 
Francisco, reached by ferry and railway, 
is interesting as being one of the chief 
centres of the famous vine-growing district. 



134 SEEING THE WEST 

In this region is Santa Rosa, the home ot 
Luther Burbank, where he has large experi- 
mental gardens. Extensive work is also 
done on his farm eight miles west of Santa 
Rosa, near Sebastopol, called the Gold 
Ridge Proving Grounds. The farm is, I 
believe, open to visitors. While at Santa 
Rosa it is interesting to see the church 
which is built of the wood of one redwood 
tree. 

OAKLAND 

Oakland, five miles from San Francisco, 
is reached by ferry, and from there we go to 
Berkeley, the seat of the University of 
California. There are several entrances 
to the university grounds, and visitors are 
admitted by any of them. The university 
is delightfully situated on the lower slopes 
of the Berkeley Hills. The site comprises 
about 530 acres of land, which rises grad- 
ually from 200 feet above sea level to 1,300 
feet. The university is well endowed, 
tuition is free to residents of California. 
There is to be in time a very fine collection 
of buildings, many of which have already 



CALIFORNIA 135 

been put up. The chief sight-seeing fea- 
tures of the university are the Greek 
Theatre, which seats 10,000 people, and 
the Campanile. There are in these grounds 
wonderful old oaks said to be thousands of 
years old; extremes in the tree family meet 
when one compares these bent, gnarled 
gray oaks with the tall, straight dignity of 
the eucalyptus trees growing round the 
theatre. There are several statues in the 
grounds, but one in bronze, by Douglas 
Tilden, who is deaf and dumb, which is 
known as the Football Player, is especially 
virile. 

LELAND STANFORD UNIVERSITY 

A fine automobile road leads from San 
Francisco through San Mateo and Palo 
Alto, to the Leland Stanford University, 
California's other great centre of learning, 
which, it is well known, was built by Mr. 
and Mrs. Leland Stanford as a memorial 
to their only ^ child. 

The driveway, of about one mile from the 
entrance to the main buildings, is charm- 



136 SEEING THE WEST 

mgly planted with palms; the grounds are 
beautifully kept, and the cactus garden is 
most interesting. The group of buildings 
is probably as fine as any in this country. 
The architecture is an adaptation of the 
old Spanish Mission architecture, with long 
colonnades, graceful arches, and pictur- 
esque red tile roofing. The inner quadrangle 
consists of twelve one-story buildings and 
the Memorial Church, connected by a 
continuous open arcade. The decorations 
of the church are very ornate; they were 
terribly damaged by the earthquake in 
1906, but are now entirely restored. 

SANTA CLARA AND MOUNT HAMILTON 

Journeying southward from here we come 
to Santa Clara, where there is an old 
mission. From there to San Jose (Ho-sai) 
one gets interesting glimpses of the famous 
prune-growing district in the lovely, fertile 
Santa Clara Valley where they claim to 
have the largest fruit-packing house in the 
world. San Jose, a little farther south, is 
one of the old historic towns; from here 



CALIFORNIA 137 

there are a number of trips to be made, the 
most important being to Mount Hamilton, 
to see the Lick Observatory; stages leave 
San Jose daily, the trip is very lovely and 
full of interest. For those who can spare 
the time, Saturday is the day to go up, as 
that night visitors are allowed to use the 
telescope. There is a little inn not far 
from the observatory where the traveller 
is taken care of. This observatory was 
built and endowed by a Californian, James 
Lick, whose body is buried under the great 
telescope. The observatory now belongs 
to the University of California, and pos- 
sesses the second most powerful refracting 
telescope in existence. 

SANTA CRUZ 

Santa Cruz is delightfully situated at 
the north end of the Monterey Bay. All 
of these places can be reached nowadays 
by automobile as well as by the Southern 
Pacific Coast Line; there are many com- 
panies that run excursions down the coast, 
using large, comfortable cars and arranging 



138 SEEING THE WEST 

for a certain amount of small baggage; at 
any of the hotels this information is given. 
Of course the automobile is the ideal 
mode of travel these days, but it is 
especially so in the West, where there 
is something to see on all sides, and up 
and down the coast, from Vancouver to 
San Diego. 

Going to the California State Redwood 
Park, we leave the main line at Felton and 
take a branch road to Boulder Creek, 
where the stage line starts ; this is a reserva- 
tion of 7,000 acres, and as beautiful a bit 
of woodland as one could ask to see, cov- 
ered with trees larger than those of theMuir 
Woods. Here, as elsewhere, camps are 
provided, and the traveller is made most 
comfortable for a day, a week, or a month, 
as he chooses. 

Monterey is situated at the extreme 
south of this lovely Monterey Bay; this is 
one of the most interesting spots in the 
state historically, and is full of old land- 
marks. It was the capital of California 
until 1849. Perhaps the most interesting 



CALIFORNIA 139 

of the old buildings is the Spanish Cus- 
toms House. The first opera house of the 
state is pointed out, and we are told that 
Jenny Lind sang there. The house in 
which Robert Louis Stevenson lived is 
pointed out, etc., etc. 

PINNACLES NATIONAL MONUMENT 

"Forty miles east of Monterey, in a 
spur of the low Coast Range, is a region 
which erosion has carved into many fan- 
tastic shapes. Because of its crowded, 
pointed rocks, it has been set apart as a 
national monument, under the above 
title, though it has long been known as 
Vancouver's Pinnacles because the great 
explorer visited it while his ships lay at 
anchor in Monterey Bay, and afterward 
described it in his 'Voyages and Dis- 
coveries.' . 

" Two deep gorges, bordered by fantastic 
walls 600 to 1,000 feet high, and a broad 
semi-circular, flower-grown amphitheatre, 
constitute the central feature."* 

*Robert Sterling Yard. 



140 SEEING THE WEST 

The best approach is from Gilroy, which 
lies between San Jose and Monterey. 

The Hotel Del Monte, at Del Monte, 
is one of the most famous on the Pacific 
Coast; the hotel and its gardens are among 
the show places of this region. This is per- 
haps the best known point from which to 
take the famous 17-mile drive, a drive 
which though still called by the old name 
has been extended to many times that 
length, and is a very beautiful beach 
drive, one not to be missed by those who 
are in this region. 

At Pacific Grove there are lovely beaches, 
and here, as at Santa Catalina Island, 
the glass-bottomed boats are enjoyed, from 
which we seem to peep into Fairyland; as we 
gaze down through the clear salt water those 
charming lines of Percival's come to us : 

Deep in the wave is a coral grove, 

Where the purple mullet and goldfish rove, 

WTiere the sea-flower spreads its leaves of blue, 
That never are wet with falling dew, 

But in bright and changeful beauty shine 
Far down in the green and glassy brine. 



CALIFORNIA 141 

At Carmel-by-the-Sea an artists' settle- 
ment, just a short drive from Monterey, 
there is an unusually beautiful beach, the 
sand is of dazzling whiteness; here there are 
two hotels, and those who like a quiet, 
restful place will revel in this spot. The 
old mission here is of exceptional interest, 
being the burial place of Padre Junipero 
Serra, the first of the Franciscan Monks 
who entered California, and established the 
first of their missions for the Indians in 
1769. 

Continuing southward we come to Paso 
Robles Hot Springs, which rank among the 
best of the many well-known hot sulphur 
springs. These baths are wonderful, 
curatively as well as architecturally. The 
Indians are said to have brought their sick 
here from all the surrounding country. 
Splendid cures from the mud baths at this 
place have been reported. The swimming 
pool is an unusually fine one. This is a 
great place for rest, fine air, lovely walks 
and drives. Through the park one might 
wander indefinitely; the place takes its 



14£ SEEING THE WEST 

name from the old oaks Paso Robles, or 
Pass of the Oaks. 

Again farther south, the stop must be 
made at San Luis Obispo, where there is 
another old mission. 



CHAPTER FOUR 

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 

TRAVELLING south, by either train 
or automobile, when one runs into 
the lovely Santa Barbara country, 
there is a feeling of satisfaction. The 
coast faces due south and the mountains 
rising back of the valley protect it from the 
cold winds. For more than a hundred 
miles the sea is in full view. 

Before reaching Santa Barbara the 
Santa Ynez Mountains are crossed; from 
the crest of this range there is a fine view 
of the four islands which bound the Santa 
Barbara Channel. The roads are of the 
best, the air is like champagne, the sun is 
sure to be bright, and altogether this is a 
most satisfying drive. 

Ventura is the town for the Mission San 
Buenaventura, very picturesque and in 

143 



144 SEEING THE WEST 

pretty good preservation. At Carpenteria 
we are shown what we are told is the 
largest grapevine in the world, not as old 
as the famous vine at Hampton Court, 
England, but much larger. Here also, in a 
beautiful spot near the beach, the home of 
the author, Stewart Edward White, is 
pointed out. 

Santa Barbara, that lovely place called 
by many the Men tone of our country, is 
particularly happily situated. Nestled at 
the foot of the Santa Ynez Mountains, it 
is entirely protected by them from the 
north and west winds, and here the blue 
waters of the Pacific Ocean, the lovelv 
coast and wonderful sunshine, flowers, and 
ocean bathing may be enjoyed just as on 
the Riviera these joys of the Mediterranean 
are to be found. This is one of the most 
charming resorts in all this resort-filled 
state. At Santa Barbara there is another 
very fine old mission. There are numerous 
trips to be made in this region. The beau- 
tiful Cliff Drive; the San Marco Pass; 
the Santa Ynez Valley, etc., etc. The sea 



CALIFORNIA 145 

trips to the islands should also be made. 
Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa are most in- 
teresting, and here may be found fine 
specimens of the Abalone shells. 

Beverly Hills is a delightful suburb, 
where there is a fine modern hotel, Beverly 
Hills Hotel, and where every comfort may 
be had. This place stands up in such a 
way that one seems to get more than the 
ordinary share of bracing salt air; the 
Pacific Electric Line runs between here and 
Los Angeles. A little farther on, by the 
same line, Santa Monica is reached; this is 
a popular resort, with various places of 
amusement, built on a bluff overlooking 
the ocean from which there is a view of the 
long, white, sandy beach, which leads on to 
Ocean Park, a popular resort on the order 
of Atlantic City, N. J. 

San Pedro, the fine Los Angeles port, 
some 20 miles from the centre of the city 
and reached by the Pacific Electric, or any 
one of the various railroads of that region, is 
the starting place for Santa Catalina Island. 
Comfortable steamers make the trip in 



146 SEEING THE WEST 

about two hours. It may be as smooth a 
crossing as any one could desire, but again 
I have seen it very rough. It is a beautiful 
sail almost due south; one is strongly 
reminded of the Mediterranean Sea here, 
with the deep blue of the water and the 
mountainous island rising right from the 
sea. The first view of Santa Catalina 
rejoices the soul, especially if one chances 
to approach it through one of the soft 
white mists which at times hang over these 
waters. This was the case on the day of 
my first trip there — the mist lifting and 
rolling away, while we were still some miles 
off — the full splendour of the noonday sun 
bringing out the island as we stood in the 
bow of the approaching ship. "Santa 
Catalina is in reality a range of mountains 
23 miles long and sufficiently rugged in 
its upper reaches to win the devotion of 
the most venturesome. The highest 
peak, Orizala, has an elevation of 2,700 
feet. For genuine excitement the visitor 
will choose a trip to the crags to hunt 
the wild goats. Horses, guides, rifles, and 



CALIFORNIA 147 

other necessaries are obtainable on the 
island."* 

This is a spot which would satisfy any 
one, from the hunter out for adventure, to 
the frailest invalid, with a desire only for a 
warm, sunny, peaceful spot in which to 
rest and grow strong. 

The land slopes gently down to the 
water's edge. The landward side of the 
island, being shaped like a great crescent, 
presents to the gaze of the approaching 
visitor a lovely green amphitheatre in the 
centre of which stands the Hotel Metro- 
pole (there are countless hotels, boarding- 
houses, and camps), to the left the Open Air 
Theatre, where the band plays each even- 
ing. There is an incline road, which takes 
to the top of the mountain those who do 
not care to climb. Trails lead off on every 
side. The Aquarium, though only a small 
beginning, has some rare specimens. The 
glass-bottomed boats are a never-ending- 
source of delight, the small ones can be 
rented for very lit±le, and one sits spell- 

*Drury. 



148 SEEING THE WEST 

bound, gazing down into the marine gar- 
dens, watching the exquisitely coloured 
fish as they pass silently to and fro, bril- 
liant blue in the sunshine, dark in the 
shadow, while the glint of the goldfish now 
here, now there, never ceases. 

"And life, in rare and beautiful forms. 
Is sporting amid those bowers of stone. 

And is safe, where the wrathful spirit of storms 
Has made the top of the wave his own."* 

The seaweed is so heavy in places that it 
suggests a forest under water, trees with 
leaves of every shape, bearing various 
fruits and berries. In the evening the 
favourite thing seems to be the small 
steamer, which puts out with a searchlight, 
to attract the flying fish; they respond very 
readily, rising and following the path of 
light, looking like fairy forms with their 
transparent silver wings. 

LOS ANGELES 

Los Angeles, the metropolis of southern 
Calif ornia, lies about 15 miles inland. It is a 

*J. G. PercivaL 



CALIFORNIA 149 

fine, prosperous city, of almost unprece- 
dentedly rapid growth. 

Los Angeles County is one of the great 
fruit-growing centres, the valleys being 
fairly covered with vineyards; orange, 
lemon, and olive groves also abound here. 

The residences, in and about the city, 
are famous for their beautiful gardens. 
The parks are fine and well kept, and the 
public play grounds are the most fascinat- 
ing I have ever seen. There is an interest- 
ing ostrich farm, opposite Eastlake Park, 
where these birds of all ages may be seen. 
There are trips to be made on all sides, but 
here, as elsewhere, the hotels provide all 
sorts of circulars, telling in detail of the 
surrounding country. In California one 
can hardly take the wrong turn, for there is 
something worth seeing in every direction. 

Pasadena, about ten miles northeast of 
Los Angeles, lies in the lovely, fertile valley 
of San Gabriel, where thousands of tourists 
come annually to the Floral Parade and 
Rose Tournament. More beautiful homes 
can be seen here than in any other one place 



150 SEEING THE WEST 

in California. The city is charmingly 
planted. Its avenues, the finest of which 
is Marengo Avenue, with its exquisite 
pepper trees on either side, presents a pic- 
ture hard to equal. Many of the sunken 
gardens belonging to private residences 
we were allowed to visit; we found them all 
they had ever been said to be. 

To the north of Pasadena is Mount 
Lowe. This trip is made from Los Angeles 
by electric, and takes about two hours. 
The car stops at Pasadena for passengers 
from there, then very soon begins to run 
upgrade and into the Rubio Canyon, where 
we leave the electric and take a cable car 
up to Echo Mountain, 3,500 feet above sea 
level, where a really superb view lies spread 
before us on all sides. From Echo a car 
runs to Alpine Tavern, quite an exciting 
bit of the trip, following in places the very 
edge of the precipice. The tavern, they 
tell us, is 5,000 feet above sea level; from 
here there are several delightful trails, all 
ending in superb views, extending many 
miles in every direction. 



CALIFORNIA 151 

Mount Wilson is a little to the southeast 
of Mount Lowe, and makes another in- 
teresting excursion. Like Mount Lowe, 
it is reached by electric, which takes one 
almost to the top. The last bit can be 
made on foot. Here again are fine views, 
and on the summit we find the Carnegie 
Solar Observatory, with the largest solar 
reflecting telescopes in the world. Those 
wishing to remain overnight can do so; 
there is a small hotel. 



RIVERSIDE 

About two hours out of Los Angeles, 
situated in the centre of one of the most 
famous orange-growing regions, is the city 
of Riverside, one of the most attractive of 
the many charming places which surround 
Los Angeles. 

The Mission Inn is worth going a long 
way to see, it is an exceptionally fine bit 
of the always-pleasing Spanish-Mission 
architecture; the central court, or patio, 
has unusual charm, with its very beautiful 



152 SEEING THE WEST 

planting; there is a famous old orange tree 
here. 

The city is built in the Santa Ana 
Valley, from which the hills roll up on all 
sides. By driving or walking to the sum- 
mit of one of these hills an extensive view 
of the valley may be had. On one of 
the drives we come upon a tablet set into 
a boulder, upon which may be read the 
following words written by that dear nature 
lover whom all the West loves to quote: 

"Climb the mountains and get their 
good tidings. Nature's peace will flow 
into you as sunshine flows into the trees. 
The winds will blow their own freshness 
into you and the storms their energy, while 
cares will drop off like autumn leaves." 

SAN DIEGO 

San Diego is the most southern port on 
the west coast of the United States, it was 
one of the earliest settlements on this coast. 

The city has a very good harbour, which 
is as interesting to the tourist as it is com- 
mercially, for there are many good trips 



CALIFORNIA 153 

to be made by water here; the kelp beds 
are especially interesting. 

The climate of San Diego is famous; it 
is said to be equally delightful the year 
round, and much is being done to make the 
city attractive. Six thousand acres have 
been set aside as parkland; the finest is 
Balboa Park, where the beautiful buildings 
erected for the Panama-California Exposi- 
tion, 1915, still stand. 

Coronado Beach, with its great Hotel 
Del Coronado, is one of the most famous of 
year-round resorts. The beach, some 15 
miles long, lies on the peninsula which 
forms the outer arm of the San Diego Bay, 
and is a very beautiful stretch. The hotel, 
like the Del Monte at Monterey, is set in 
a tropical garden; the flower beds, great 
sheets of colour, are an endless delight to 
the Easterner; here may be enjoyed every 
luxury of modern life with all the ease and 
freedom of the tropics. 

In the old town one may see the Estudillo 
House, made famous by Helen Hunt Jack- 
son as the place where Ramona was mar- 



154 SEEING THE WEST 

ried. This is a very picturesque spot, the 
courtyard especially so, and in the garden 
the old oven still stands. 

Point Loma, a small peninsula which 
juts into the ocean at the most northern 
point of San Diego Bay, should be visited; 
fine views can be had from the point, and 
interesting caves, on the ocean side, are 
visited en route. "The Theosophical In- 
stitute of Universal Brotherhood" is on 
this peninsula. Here, under the leadership 
of Katharine Tingley, this society has es- 
tablished itself and its model school. The 
colony is open to tourists. The architec- 
ture is unusual. 

THE AMERICAN SAHARA 

The Great American Desert was almost 
better known a generation ago than it is 
to-day. Then the hardy Argonauts tra- 
versed that fearful waste on foot with their 
dawdling ox trams, and hundreds of them 
left their bones to bleach in that thirsty 
land. The survivors of these deadly jour- 
neys had a very definite idea of what that 



CALIFORNIA 155 

desert was, but now that we can cross it 
in a day in Pullman cars, its real and still- 
existing horrors are largely forgotten. 

"The first scientific exploration of this 
deadly area was Lieutenant Wheeler's 
United States survey in the early fifties; 
and he was the first to give scientific assur- 
ance that we have here a desert as al^solute 
as the Sahara. It is full of strange, burnt, 
ragged mountain ranges, with deceptive, 
sloping, broad valleys between. There are 
countless extinct volcanoes upon it and 
hundreds of square miles of black, bristling 
lava flows. The summer heat is incon- 
ceivable, often reaching 136 degrees in 
the shade; even in winter the mid-day 
heat is sometimes insufferable, while at 
night ice frequently forms on the water 
tanks. 

"There are oa^es in the desert, chief of 
which are the narrow valleys of the Mojave 
River and the lower Colorado. It is a 
strange thing to see these soft green ribbons 
athwart the molten landscape. 

"The Arabian simoon is not deadlier 



156 SEEING THE WEST 

than the sandstorm of the Colorado Desert 
(as the lower half is generally called). 
Man or beast caught in one of these 
sand-laden tempests has little chance of 
escape. 

"In the southern portions of the desert 
are many strange freaks of vegetable life — 
huge cacti 60 feet tall and as large around 
as a barrel, with singular arms, which make 
them look like giant candelabra; smaller 
but equally fantastic varieties of cactus, 
from the tall, lithe Ocalilla, or whipstock 
cactus, down to the tiny knob smaller than 
a china cup. There are countless more 
modest flowers, too, and in the rainy season 
thousands of square miles are carpeted 
with a floral carpet, which makes it hard 
for the traveller to believe that he is really 
gazing upon a desert. 

"This American Sahara is more than 
1,500 miles long from north to south and 
nearly half as wide. The most fatally 
famous part is Death Valley, in Califor- 
nia. * 

*Lummis. 



CALIFORNIA 157 

The Colorado Desert is best known to 
many of us through George Wharton 
James' fascinating book called: "The 
Wonders of the Colorado Desert"; accord- 
ing to this writer there is here a wealth of 
pleasure awaiting those who care to enter 
into the silent places of nature. 

Probably the most attractive, as well as 
the most convenient, points from which to 
make the trip into the real desert are River- 
side and Redlands, passing through Na- 
ture's magnificent gateway, which lies be- 
tween the San Jacinto and San Bernardino 
Ranges. The most satisfactory way to 
make this trip is on horseback, with camp- 
ing outfit. Such trips are not for those 
who are dependent upon modern hotel 
comforts. 

Mr. James says: "In the desert the 
soul of man finds itself as nowhere else on 
earth. On every hand are strange, won- 
derful, beautiful things. No hall of necro- 
mancers can equal the desert in its marvels 
and revelations. Wonder follows wonder 
in quick succession, etc." 



158 SEEING THE WEST 



MISSIONS 

The Encyclopedia Britannica says: 
"The Jesuit Missionaries entered Cali- 
fornia in 1697 and established their first 
mission at Loreto,^ continuing to spread 
these missions until 1767, when they were 
expelled from the country by order of 
Charles III of Spain and all their property 
was turned over to the Franciscan Monks, 
who later moved north to upper California. 
. . . Mexico's becoming independent 
of Spain in 1822 was the death-blow to the 
establishment of the Franciscans, which 
finally broke up in 1840 after they had 
founded twenty -one missions." 

Many of these old buildings have been 
restored and are in a fine state of preserva- 
tion to-day; they have had a distinct effect 
upon the architecture of California. The 
picturesque Spanish lines are particularly 
suitable to this climate, where the open 
courts and the beautiful arcades have a 
perpfetual background of blue sky, with 
the clear, sparkling atmosphere of Calif or- 



CALIFORNIA 159 

nia. It is impossible in a very limited 
space to give a description of each mission, 
and there are various books to be had on 
the subject — "In and Out of the Old 
Missions of California," by George Whar- 
ton James; "The Missions of California 
and the Old Southwest," by Jesse S. Hil- 
drup, etc. A delightful trip is made by 
motor, visiting each in turn; they are, 
mentioning them in order from the most 
southern up, as they follow the coastline, 
San Diego, San Luis Rey, San Juan Capis- 
trano, San Gabriel, Los Angeles, San 
Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, 
La Purisima Concepcion, San Luis Obispo, 
San Miguel, San Antonio, Mission Soledad, 
San Carlos, San Juan Bautista, Santa 
Cruz, Santa Clara, San Jose, Mission 
Dolores, San Rafael Archangel, Mission 
San Francisco Solano. 

These missions were built a day's walk 
apart in order that the travellers on foot 
could always find shelter at the end of a 
day's tramp. In Los Angeles there is 
given each year a mission play commemo- 



160 SEEING THE WEST 

rating this period in the history of CaHfomia. 
An ambulatory surrounding the play- 
house shows models of all the missions in 
their order; a visit to this place and wit- 
nessing a performance of the play will do 
much toward impressing upon the tourist 
the early settlement of this part of the 
west coast. 



PART FIVE 
THE SOUTHWEST 

I've stood in some miglity-mouthed hollow 

That's plum-full of hush to the brim; 
I've watched the big, husky sun wallow 

In crimson and gold, and grow dim. 
Till the moon set the pearly peaks gleaming. 

And the stars tumbled out, neck and crop; 
And I've thought that I surely was dreaming. 

With the peace o' the world piled on top. 

• — SERVICE. 



CHAPTER ONE 

THE GRAND CANYON 

THE Grand Canyon of the Colorado 
is the world's most famous gorge, in 
which Mr. Lummis says : "All the 
world's famous gorges could be lost forever." 
Charles Dudley Warner said of this 
spot: "Human experience has no proto- 
type of this region, and the imagination has 
never conceived of its forms and colours. 
. . . The scene is one to strike dumb 
with awe, or to unstring the nerves. . . . 
All that we could comprehend was a vast 
confusion of amphitheatres and strange 
architectural forms resplendent with colour 
. . . Streaks of solid hues 1,000 feet in 
width, yellows mingled with white and gray, 
orange, dull red, brown, blue, carmine, and 
green all blending in the sunlight into one 
transcendent effusion of splendour." 

163 



164 SEEING THE WEST 

Here is truly one of the most marvellous 
nature wonders of the world, and com- 
paratively few of us have seen it. It is 
stupendous ! It is incomprehensible ! 

The canyon lies chiefly in Arizona, 
though Utah, Nevada, and California touch 
each a corner. It is nearly 300 miles long 
and in places 6,600 feet deep; the width 
at the top is from 8 to 20 miles. The river 
lying below is in places 300 feet wide, and 
is 2,400 feet above sea level; yet looking 
down from the rim it seems the smallest 
stream, the merest thread. 

The Santa Fe trains run twice a day 
to the canyon.* There is a fine, big hotel, 
the El Tovar, with every modern comfort, 
built on a site 7,000 feet above sea level and 
quite near the rim, commanding such a 
view as can hardly be equalled in the 
world. 

Mr. C. A. Higgins in his "The Titan of 
Chasms," says: "Stolid indeed is he who 
can front the awful scene and view its 
unearthly splendour of colour and form 

*From Williams, Ariz. 



THE SOUTHWEST 165 

without quaking knee or tremulous breath. 
An inferno swathed in soft, celestial fires; 
a whole chaotic under-world, just emptied 
of primeval floods and waiting for a new 
creative word; eluding all sense of perspec- 
tive or dimension, outstretching the faculty 
of measurement, overlapping the confines 
of definite apprehension; a boding, terrible 
thing, unflinchingly real, yet spectral as a 
dream. ... A labyrinth of huge ar- 
chitectural forms, endlessly varied in de- 
sign, fretted with ornamental devices, 
festooned with lace-like webs formed of 
talus from the upper cliffs and painted with 
every colour known to the palette in pure, 
transparent tones of marvellous delicacy. 
"A canyon, truly, but not after the 
accepted type. An intricate system of 
canyons, rather. . . . Only by de- 
scending into the canyon may one arrive 
at anything like comprehension of its pro- 
portions, and the descent cannot be too 
urgently recommended to every visitor who 
is sufficiently robust to bear a reasonable 
amount of fatigue." 



166 SEEING THE WEST 

There are several paths down the south- 
ern wall of the canyon, and the trip is 
safely made on horseback. A word of 
advice here in regard to clothing may be of 
use. It is absolutely necessary to have 
good, warm clothing with one, for the night, 
which is spent on the floor; but for the 
descent a light shade hat is advisable; the 
heat of the afternoon sun can be very 
oppressive. 

Mr. William Winter said of the Grand 
Canyon: "It is a pageant of ghastly 
desolation and yet of frightful vitality, 
such as neither Dante nor Milton in their 
most sublime conceptions ever even ap- 
proached. . . . Your heart is moved 
with feeling that is far too deep for words. 
Hour after hour you would sit, entranced, 
at the edge of this mighty subterranean 
spectacle, lost in the wonder and glory of 
it, forgetful of self, and conscious only of 
the Divine Spirit." 

"If the falls of Niagara were installed 
in the Grand Canyon between your visits — 
and you knew it by the newspapers — next 



THE SOUTHA^^ST 167 

time you stood on that dizzy rimrock 
you would probably need good field-glasses 
and much patience before you could locate 
that cataract which in its place looks pretty 
big. If Mount Washington were plucked 
up bodily by the roots — not from where 
you see it, but from sea level — and care- 
fully set down in the Grand Canyon, you 
probably would not notice it next morning, 
unless its dull colours distinguished it in 
that innumerable congress of larger and 
painted giants. 

"All this, which is literally true, is a mere 
trifle of what might be said in trying to fix 
a standard of comparison for the Grand 
Canyon. But I fancy there is no standard 
adjustable to the human mind. You may 
compare all you will — eloquently and from 
wide experience — and at last all similes 
fail. The Grand Canyon is just the Grand 
Canyon, and that is all you can say. I 
never have seen any one who was prepared 
for it. I never have seen any one who could 
grasp it in a week's hard exploration; nor 
any one, except some rare Philistine, who 



168 SEEING THE WEST 

could even think he had grasped it. I have 
seen people rave over it; better people 
struck dumb with it; even strong men who 
wept over it; but I have never yet seen the 
man or woman who expected it."* 

Last, but by no means least, let me 
quote a few words from an article published 
in the Century Magazine by Mr. John 
Muir: 

"It seems a gigantic statement for even 
Nature to make, all in one stone word. 
Wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval, 
bestows a new sense of earth's beauty and 
size. . . . But the colours, the living, 
rejoicing colours, chanting, morning and 
evening, in chorus to heaven. Whose 
brush or pencil, however lovingly inspired, 
can give us these.'' In the supreme flaming 
glory of sunset the whole canyon is trans- 
figured, as if all the life and light of cen- 
turies of sunshine stored up in the rocks 
was now being poured forth as from one 
glorious fountain, flooding both earth and 
sky." 

*Charles F. Liunmis. 



THE SOUTHWEST 169 

It is a happy thing to be able to quote 
such men as the above, for I am among the 
number of those who were struck dumb 
by the sight of this place. I can find no 
words which would give any idea of the 
impression made upon me by the canyon, 
I can only advise those planning a western 
trip to see it, without fail, either going or 
returning; the time of the year does not 
matter, the El Tovar is open to you the 
year round. 

THE PAINTED DESERT 

Among the interesting trips in this region 
is that to the Painted Desert, of which one 
hears little, probably because it is a difficult 
trip; still it is perfectly possible for any 
ordinarily hardy traveller. Five to seven 
days should be allowed for the journey 
which is made on horse- or mule-back. 
The descent to the floor of the canyon is a 
rough ride and very fatiguing, but by no 
means dangerous. The trail leads down 
canyon after canyon, dropping lower and 
lower, for it must be remembered that the 



170 SEEING THE WEST 

Painted Desert lies 200 feet below sea level, 
while the rim of the canyon from which 
we start is 7,000 feet above sea level. 
One can readily imagine the change in 
temperature in such a descent (mentioned 
elsewhere); the mercury stands at times 
at 115°; however, those who care to put 
up with the hardships are likely to feel 
themselves fully repaid. 

An experienced guide is necessary, es- 
pecially on account of the quicksands 
which must be avoided in crossing the 
Little Colorado River. The colours of the 
sand, the mountains, and the sky are in- 
describable; they are so brilliant as to 
seem absolutely unreal, while beyond in 
the distance is seen, in all its dazzling 
whiteness of snow-capped peaks, the lovely 
San Francisco range, a fitting background 
for this mad riot of colour. 

PETRIFIED FOREST 
(national monument) 

*'The Fossil Forest of Arizona, one of the 
most remarkable features of a state noted 



THE SOUTHWEST 171 

for its scenic wonders, is situated a few 
miles south of Adamana, a station on the 
Santa Fe Raihoad in Apache County. 
. . . Only within a few years have 
accommodations and transportation facili- 
ties been such as to tempt more than a very 
small proportion of the tourists and trav- 
ellers to 'stop off' on their through tickets 
to the Grand Canyon and Pacific Coast. 
Since the setting aside of the area as a 
national monument, and the appointment 
of a superintendent, the way has become 
easy, and the constantly increasing number 
of visitors has made the preparation of some 
form of scientific account of the Forest 
almost a necessity." 

This Mr. George Perkins Merrill follows 
with a careful geological account of the 
forest, which can be had by those who 
wish to go carefully into the matter. 

Here, as in the Great Petrified Forest 
in the Arabian Desert, so called to distin- 
guish it from the one near Cairo, known 
as the Petrified Forest, the trees are fallen 
and lie prone upon the ground, glittering 



172 SEEING THE WEST 

fragments of carnelian and jasper all about 
them. There are not even standing stumps 
here, as in the Great Petrified Forest of the 
Arabian Desert and the Yellowstone For- 
ests where superb specimens still may be 
seen. 

There are within the reservation four 
forests, but the first is the one most gen- 
erally visited. This first is about six miles 
from Adamana; it is easily reached in an 
hour and a half. The second forest is two 
and one half miles south of the first, the 
trip taking about half an hour each way. 
The third forest covers a greater area than 
the others, it is 13 miles southwest of Ada- 
mana and 18 miles southeast of Holbrook. 
The third forest, known as the Rainbow 
Forest, is the principal one ; it is often called 
Chalcedony Park. The ground here seems 
strewn with jewels, and one has the feeling 
of being in an enchanted spot; the colours 
are most brilliant; chalcedony, opals, and 
agates are found here. 

One of the most interesting features of 
this region is the Natural Bridge, consist- 



THE SOUTHWEST 173 

ing of a great petrified trunk of jasper 
and agate lying across a canyon 60 feet 
wide and 20 feet deep, and forming a 
foot-bridge over which any one may easily 
pass. 



I 



CHAPTER TWO 

HISTORIC PLACES IN NEW MEXICO 
AND ARIZONA 

NEW MEXICO 

HERE we begin to realize that this 
is an old country rather than a 
new. Americans are prone to talk 
about the * Settlement Period,' of Bradford 
and Brewster, of Captain John Smith and 
Henry Hudson. But it is well to remem- 
ber that nearly a century before the Half 
Moon sailed up the Hudson or the May- 
flower dropped her anchor in Massachusetts 
Bay, the mailed warriors of Cabeza de 
Vaca and Coronado had discovered the 
terraced cities of Zuni, where men were 
clothed in cotton and wool of their own 
weaving, lived in stone houses, and culti- 
vated the soil." 

174 



THE SOUTHWEST 175 

At Albuquerque we find ourselves in a 
half -American and half -Mexican city. It 
is a junction point of the Santa Fe and the 
metropolis of New Mexico. Many trav- 
ellers stop here for a day or two, to break 
their journey. 

The Alvarado, a Harvey hotel, has a fine 
collection of Indian relics and products and 
here one is likely to see the Navajo and 
Hopi weavers, potters, silversmiths, and 
basketmakers at work. 

"Santa Fe lies at the base of a mountain 
range nearly 2,000 feet higher than Albu- 
querque, a few miles off the main line of 
travel, on a branch line. Lamy is the 
main fine junction point, where one changes 
cars to reach Santa Fe. When first visited 
by the Spanish, about 1540 (a century be- 
fore Boston was settled), the town was a 
populous Indian pueblo. You may read 
its varied history in the guide books and 
study its priceless records in the old terri- 
torial * Palace.' The Casa Vie jo, or old 
house, where Coronado is said to have 
lodged in 1540, and the church of San 



176 SEEING THE WEST 

Miguel, which was sacked in 1680, are not 
distinguishable from their surroundings by 
any air of superior age. All is old, a bit of 
desiccated Granada of the 16th century. 

HOPILAND, WOLPI AND ORAIBI 

"There are many ways of getting into 
the Hopi country, but there are three com- 
monly used routes, each of which has cer- 
tain advantages. At the starting-point of 
each one of them conveyances may easily be 
secured for the trip. The three points are 
the stations of Holbrook, Winslow, and 
Canyon Diablo, all along the line of the 
Santa Fe. The Hopi country stretches out 
north of these three stations; the distance 
is about the same from each. Holbrook 
possesses one advantage over the other 
two routes: the town is situated on 
the Hopi side of the Little Colorado 
River; consequently, the question as to 
whether the river is fordable need not be 
considered. 

"The distance from Holbrook to Wolpi, 
the easternmost of the Hopi villages, is 



THE SOUTHWEST 177 

about 80 miles. This trip, with camping 
outfit, usually requires about three days. 

" Winslow, a much larger town than Hol- 
brook, is a division point on the Santa Fe, 
and has several hotels and livery stables. 
Of the latter the writer is able to recom- 
mend, from much personal experience, that 
kept by Mr. Creswell. The route from 
Winslow to Oraibi, the westernmost vil- 
lage, is not quite 80 miles. 

"Canyon Diablo has neither hotel nor 
livery stable. Mr. Volz, the Indian trader 
at this point, will, with advance notice, 
furnish the necessities. Should there be 
ladies in the party, and should it be possible 
to secure Mr. Volz's personal services for 
the journey, this route offers certain ad- 
vantages not to be found by either of the 
other two, and the cost is about the same. 

"Whether our journey be made in winter 
or summer, spring or autumn, we are sure 
to intrude upon (for they are not to be 
considered in any sense as 'shows') one or 
more of the great ceremonials, usually an 
invocation for rain, a propitiation of the 



178 SEEING THE WEST 

gods of the winds for bountiful harvests, 
or a general thanksgiving for protection, 
with the brilliant public pageant at the 
close. But smile not at the curious sand 
altars, with the *tiponi' or palladium of the 
fraternity, the childlike *bahos' and 'nak- 
wakwosi,' or prayer-sticks and offerings, 
nor let the ears or eyes be offended by the 
chanting of the songs to the gods of sun, of 
winds and of rain, or the ceremonial dances 
of the priests, for they are serious affairs 
to the native participants."* 

"It is in these strange, cliff -perched little 
cities that one of the most astounding 
barbaric dances in the world is held. 
Africa has no savages whose mystic per- 
formances are more wonderful than the 
Hopi snake dance. 

"The snake is an object of great respect 
among all uncivilized peoples, and the 
deadlier his power, the deeper the reverence 
for him. The Hopi often protect in their 
houses an esteemed and harmless serpent — 
about five or six feet long — as a mouse trap; 



* 



Mr. W. H. Simpson, A. T. and S. F. R. R. 



THE SOUTHWEST 179 

and these quiet mdusers keep down the 
little pests much more effectively than a 
cat, for they can follow shee-id-deh to the 
ultimate corner of his hole." 

Up to a generation ago every pueblo 
protected at least one rattlesnake, but now 
the Hopi Indian alone continues the cus- 
tom. Once a year the remarkable cere- 
mony of the snake dance is still performed, 
and Mr. Lummis, from whom the above is 
quoted, tells us that after the dance is 
over he has seen a hillock of rattlesnakes a 
foot high and four feet across. 

"The dancers leap about this squirming 
pile while sacred corn meal is sprinkled, 
then thrust each an arm into the mass, 
grasp a number of snakes, and go running 
at top speed to the four points of the com- 
pass, and thus the unharmed snakes are 
released." 

THE NAVAJO RESERVATION 

To the north and east of the Hopi Reser- 
vation is the Navajo Reservation, also 
accessible by the Santa Fe Railroad. 



180 SEEING THE WEST 

These Indians, unlike their neighbours, 
will not even touch a snake. Mr. Lummis 
tells a most interesting story of his having 
had a Navajo Indian make for him a silver 
bracelet in the form of a snake. So ex- 
treme are their prejudices that this silver- 
smith was almost beaten to death by his 
fellows, and the bracelet, together with his 
hut, were destroyed. 

The Navajo reveres the bear as the Hopi 
does the snake. They even go so far as 
to make prayers and sacrifices to him. 
They are the most wonderful of jugglers. 
Dr. Washington Matthews, who was the 
foremost student of Navajo customs, said 
oflScially: "I have seen many fire scenes 
on the stage, many acts of fire-eating and 
fire-handling by civilized jugglers, but 
nothing comparable to this." 

The Navajo blanket is known all over 
this country; these Indians and the Hopi 
are especially famous for their weaving. 
But it is not to-day what it used to be; the 
blanket to-day is made to sell, not to wear. 

The Navajo Reservation is now a na- 



THE SOUTHWEST 181 

tional monument, and protects three ex- 
tensive prehistoric pueblos, or cHff dwell- 
ings, in a good state of preservation. 

RAINBOW BRIDGE 
(national monument) 

In the Navajo Indian Reservation may 
be seen the Rainbow Bridge National 
Monument. The bridge is 309 feet above 
the water, and its span is 279 feet. Among 
the natural bridges of the world this one 
is said to be unique, having not only a 
symmetrical arch below but presenting also 
a curved surface above, thus having the 
appearance of a rainbow. An unusual trip 
may be made from here to the Natural 
Bridge National Monument, a distance 
of 160 miles. 

PUEBLO OF COCHITI 

"The most extensive and wonderful 
cave communities in the world are in the 
great Cochiti upland, some 50 miles north- 
west of Santa Fe, New Mexico. The 
journey is a very laborious one, but by no 



182 SEEING THE WEST 

means dangerous; and if you can get a good 
guide, you are apt to remember it as the 
most interesting expedition of your life. 

"In the superbly picturesque canyon 
of the Rito de los Frigoles is the largest of 
all the villages of caves, deserted for more 
than 400 years. Outside its unnumbered 
cave rooms were more rooms yet, of ma- 
sonry of 'bricks' cut from the same cliff. 

"A few miles farther up the Rio Grande, 
not down in a canyon, but on the top of 
a great plateau, nearly 2,000 feet above the 
river, are two huge castle -like buttes of 
chalky tufa, each some 200 feet high. 
They stand one on each side of the Santa 
Clara Canypn, and are known to the In- 
dians, respectively, as the Puye and the 
Shu-fin-ne. They are the most easily 
accessible of the large cave villages of 
North America, not being more than 10 
miles from the little railroad town of 
Espanola, on the Rio Grande, some 30 
miles by rail from Santa Fe. 

"In this same wild region are the only 
great stone idols (or, to speak more prop- 



THE SOUTHWEST 183 

erly, fetiches) in the United States — the 
mountain lions of Cochiti, They are life 
size and carved from the solid bedrock on 
the top of two huge mesas. To this day 
the Indians of Cochiti, before a hunt, go to 
one of these almost inaccessible spots, 
anoint the great stone head, and dance by 
night, a wild dance, which no white man 
has seen or ever will see."* 

THE PUEBLOS OF ACOMA AND LAGUNA 

Acoma is 13 miles south of the Santa Fe 
Railway in the western part of New Mexico. 
It is reached from Lagaina, which is in 
itself another most interesting place; it is 
the most recent of all the pueblos, having 
been founded in 1699. 

"Of all the 19 pueblos of New Mexico, 
Acoma is by far the most wonderful. In- 
deed, it is probably the most remarkable 
city in the whole world. Perched upon the 
level summit of a great *box' of rock whose 
perpendicular sides are nearly 400 feet high, 
and reached by some of the dizziest paths 

^p— — II I » 1 1 1 — 

*Lummis. 



184 SEEING THE WEST 

ever trodden by human feet, the prehistoric 
town looks far across the wilderness. Its 
quaint terraced houses of gray adobe, its 
huge church — ^hardly less wonderful than 
the pyramids of Egypt as a monument of 
patient toil — its great reservoir in the solid 
rock, its superb scenery, its romantic his- 
tory and the strange customs of its 600 
people, all are rife with interest to the few 
Americans who visit the isolated city. 
Neither liistory nor tradition tells us when 
Acoma was founded. The pueblo was 
once situated on the top of the Mesa 
Encantada (Enchanted Tableland), which 
rises 700 feet, near the mesa now occupied. 

"The present Acoma was an old town 
when the first European — Coronado, the 
famous Spanish explorer — saw it in 1540. 
With that its authentic history begins — a 
strange, weird history, in scattered frag- 
ments. . . . 

"Acoma is a labyrinth of wonders of 
which no person alive knows all; the long- 
est visit never wears out its glamour. One 
feels as among scenes and beings more than 



THE SOUTHWEST 185 

human, all of whose rocks are genii and 
whose people swart conjurors. It is spend- 
thrift of beauty. . . . It is the noblest 
specimen of fantastic beauty on the con- 
tinent." 

Laguna lies some 20 miles northeast of 
Acoma. Mr. Lummis, from whom the 
above is quoted, tells a most interesting 
story of a law-suit carried on between these 
two cities over the picture of a saint. The 
story is told in "Some Strange Corners of 
Our Country." Not only does the writer 
know these strange corners, but he has a 
wonderful way of making his readers see 
them. 

THE APACHE 

The Apache reservations are in Arizona 
and New Mexico. There is one, about 
100 miles from El Paso, on the border of 
Texas and New Mexico, but perhaps the 
most accessible for tourists is the San Car- 
los Agency of the White Mountain Reser- 
vation, reached by stage from Holbrook, a 
distance of about 96 miles. 



186 SEEING THE WEST 

There are no Apache ruins, for this tribe 
Hved in tepees made of twigs, and not in 
pueblos or permanent houses. 

Basketmaking is the principal industry 
among the women. 

. CAPULIN MOUNTAIN 

(national monument) 

"This mountain in northeastern New 
Mexico is a volcanic cinder cone of recent 
origin, six miles southwest of Folsom. It 
is the finest specimen of a group of 
craters. Capulin has an altitude of 8,000 
feet and rises 1,500 feet above the sur- 
rounding plain. It is almost a perfect 
cone. It is easily reached by either rail or 
automobile." 



BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUIMENT 

Eighteen miles west of Sante Fe, N. M., 
in a beautiful valley with high surrounding 
walls some six miles long, and about one 
half mile wide, with an entrance narrow 
enough to admit but two persons abreast, 



THE SOUTHWEST 187 

may be seen the home of a people who hved 
in caves. This is a region full of interest; 
there is here a large area which has been 
suggested for a national park, to be called : 
"The Cliff Cities National Park"; it is 
reached by automobile from Sante Fe. 

ZUNI 

Zuni is also reached by the Santa Fe 
R. R. from Gallup. This is said to be the 
largest of all the pueblos. At Zuni, Mr. 
Frank Hamilton Cushing passed many 
years of his life, as a member of the tribe. 
This famous ethnologist probably learned 
more of the real Indian, because more 
closely associated with him, than any other 
white man has done; he is the authority on 
this particular tribe. 

Conveyances can be had at Gallup for 
the trip to Zuni, which is generally made 
in a day. The pueblo lies in a level plain 
on the southern bank of the Zuni River; 
it may be seen at quite a distance, owing 
to the irregularity in the height of the 
houses, some of which are five stories, and 



188 SEEING THE W^ST 

the irregular lay of the ground upon which 
they are built. 

To the traveller who has been to Acoma, 
Zuni may be disappointing, or rather the 
approach to Zuni, Acoma being built upon 
a great rock mesa; but why compare such 
different spots? Each has its own charm. 
The ladders which are seen upon all sides at 
Zuni add greatly to its picturesque ap- 
pearance; they have been well described as: 
"A wilderness of masts." 

Pottery is the great industry of the 
Zuni, in which art they excel; not only 
are the jars, bowls, etc., beautifully 
shaped, but the decorative designs, mostly 
semi-geometric, and the combining of 
the reds, browns, and black is wonderfully 
artistic. 

A great many religious rites exist in 
Zuni, some such celebration taking place 
every month, many in the open air, so 
that it is possible that the tourist may 
chance upon one of these at almost any 
time. There is a famous Zuni dance held 
in November each year, which may be 



THE SOUTHWEST 189 

witnessed by all. There are many shrines 
in this vicinity where visitors are allowed, 
the most important of which is the one 
on Thunder Mountain, quite a climb, but 
worthy the effort; here the Zuni still make 
their offerings of prayer-sticks, etc., to the 
gods to whom this shrine is dedicated. 

From Zuni the trip into the Painted 
Desert may be made.* 

EL MORRO 
(national monument) 

In western central New Mexico there 
is an enormous sandstone rock, rising some 
200 feet out of a plain, which, having a 
small spring of water at its base, seems to 
have made it a valuable camping place for 
the Spanish explorers. 

This rock contains some 21 Spanish in- 
scriptions, the earliest of which is dated 
February 18, 1526; the most interesting is 
probably that of Juan de Onate, the founder 
of the city of Santa Fe in 1606. 



*See page 169. 



190 SEEING THE WEST 

THE GRAN QUIVIRA 
(national monument) 

"Eighty miles southwest of Albuquerque, 
in the hollow of towering desert ranges, lies 
the arid country which Indian tradition 
calls the Accursed Lakes. Here at the 
points of a large triangle sprawl the ruins 
of three once flourishing pueblo cities, 
Abo, Cuaray, and Tabira. When the 
Spaniards came these cities were at the 
flood-tide of prosperity."* At Tabira was 
built one of the important early Spanish 
missions. The towns were discovered in 
1581. The reservation preserves this in- 
teresting mission ruin in Central New 
Mexico. 

PHOENIX AND THE ROOSEVELT DAM 

Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, is the 
starting point for several places of interest, 
the chief, perhaps, being the Roosevelt 
Dam. 

This very picturesque and splendid dam 

*Robert Sterling Yard. 



THE SOUTHWEST 191 

is built in a narrow canyon about 80 miles 
from Phoenix; it holds in a fine natural 
basin a great wealth of water. The lake 
fills a valley 28 miles long, and in the hill- 
sides surrounding the water there are re- 
mains of cliff and cave dwellings; here an- 
cient and modern masonry meet. These 
dwellings are known as the "Ton to Na- 
tional Monument." 

THE APACHE TRAIL 

For the traveller the most interesting 
feature in this region is the Apache Trail. 
An auto-stage leaves Phoenix daily for what 
is known as the Globe-Miami district, 120 
miles away. The trail leads through the 
Salt River Valley, the Apache Gap (said to 
be the scene of a battle between the 7th 
Cavalry and the Apaches in 1886), to No 
Man's Land, and Summit, altitude 3,470 
feet. On the descent are unusual panoramic 
views of castellated cliffs and deep mountain 
gorges, with the usual magic desert colour- 
ing. 

The trail leads past the Roosevelt Dam 



192 SEEING THE WEST 

and lake with fine views all the way to 
Globe, the home of the Old Dominion 
Copper Co., and Miami, of the Inspiration 
Copper Co., both mining towns. 

TUCSON 

Tucson is a close rival of Phoenix. This 
old town still has some of the charm of 
ancient Mexico. A few miles from Tucson 
there is one of the finest and best preserved 
old missions of the Southwest, San Xavier. 
The outside has been considerably restored 
and, unfortunately, whitewashed, all but 
the central portion, which happily is in 
the original brownish colour. The interior 
decorations, very ornate, are the originals. 
The crudely carved wooden lions at the sides 
of the altar rails date undoubtedly from 
the founding, supposed to have been 1692. 

THE PAPAGO SAGUARO 
(national monument) 

About nine miles east of Phoenix and 12 
miles from the Apache Trail, a small area 
has been made a national monument on ac- 



THE SOUTHWEST 193 

count of its splendid examples of character- 
istic desert flora. Here are to be seen strik- 
ing specimens of the giant cactus, Saguaro, 
which attains a height of 30 to 35 feet and 
is of a beautiful cylindrical form. Not only 
this, but many other interesting species of 
cacti and yucca grow here. 

WALNUT CANYON 

(national monument) 

Thirty cliff dwellings cling to the sides of 
the picturesque Walnut Canyon, eight miles 
from Flagstaff, Arizona. They are ex- 
cellently preserved. The largest contains 
eight rooms. This canyon possesses un- 
usual beauty because of the thickets of 
locust which fringe the trail down from the 
ruins. Some of the ruins are only accessible 
by ladder. Because of its nearness to 
Flagstaff this group of dwellings is easily 
visited. 

MONTEZUMA CASTLE 
(national monument) 

Montezuma Castle, a remarkable relic of 
a prehistoric race, is the principal feature of 



194 SEEING THE WEST 

a well-preserved group of cliff dwellings in 
the northeastern part of Yavapai County, 
Arizona. Its position and size give it the 
appearance of an ancient castle. The 
structure is about 50 feet high by 60 feet 
wide, built in the form of a crescent. It is 
five stories high, with walls of masonry 
and adobe, plastered inside with mud." 

THE CASA GRANDE 

(national monument) 

This is one of the most remarkable pre- 
historic ruins in the country. It is about 
70 miles from Tucson, perhaps nearer the 
border town of Sonora. "A building of 
large size, evidently this was an important 
centre of population. The builders were 
probably Pima Indians. Whatever its 
origin, the community was already in ruins 
when the Spaniards found it." 

The first report we have of it is in 1539. 
The whole is now roofed over for protection. 

AN APPEAL TO TOURISTS 

It is earnestly requested of all travellers, 
old and young alike, that they shall do 



THE SOUTHWEST 195 

their part toward preserving unimpaired 
the beauty of the spots that they visit, and 
that instead of disfiguring the landscape 
by scattering the debris of their lunch- 
baskets, together with torn papers and 
broken boxes, all along their route, they 
shall conscientiously avail themselves of 
the trash-cans everywhere liberally pro- 
vided for their use. 

The names of a few reference books are 
herewith appended in order that the trav- 
eller who is especially interested in any 
particular line may be enabled to find some 
extra information along that line if he so 
wish. 

Doubtless there are countless other 
books to be had on any of these subjects, 
but I have tried to name one which will be 
of service in looking up birds, trees, flowers, 
pottery, blankets, glaciers, Indian bas- 
ketry, cliff dwellings, etc., etc. 

THE END 



REFERENCE BOOKS 

A Study of Pueblo Pottery . . F.H. Cushing 

A Thousand Mile Walk to the Gulf . John Muir 
A Tramp Across the Continent Chas. F. Lummis 
Arizona Nights .... Stewart Edward White 
Arizona and New Mexico . . . H. H. Bancroft 
Beyond the Rockies . . . . C. A. Stoddard 

Birds of California Wheelock 

Birds of the Rockies L. S. Keyser 

California and the Southwest . . F.W. Martin 
California Desert Trails . . Joseph S. Chase 

California Missions and Landmarks 

Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes 
California Tourist's Guide . . Wells Drury 

California Wild Flowers . . . Theodore Payne 
Designs on Prehistoric Pottery . , J. W. Fewkes 
Fifteen Thousand Miles by Stage . C. A. Strahorn 
Flora of Middle Western California . Jejpson 

Flora of the Rocky Mountains and Adjacent Plains 

P. A. Rydherg 
Flora of the West Coast . . . . C.V. Piper 
Forest Trees of the Pacific Slope . G. B. Sudworth 
Glaciers of Mount Rainier . . . . I. C. Russell 
Glaciers of North America . . . . I. C. Russell 

197 



198 REFERENCE BOOKS 

Highways and Byways of the Rocky Mts. 

C. Johnson 
In and About the Grand Canyon of Arizona 

G. W. James 
In and Out of the Old Missions . . G.W. James 
In the Heart of the Sierras . J. M. Hutchings 

In the Land of the Chff Dweller and Indians of 

To-day T.M. Prudden 

Indian Basketry G. W. James 

Indians of the Painted Desert . . G. W. James 
Indians of the Yosemite Valley . . Galen Clark 

Indians of To-day G. B. Grinnell 

Journal of a Trip Through the Western Country 

Theo. Winthrop 
Land of the Cliff Dwellers . . . F. S. Chapin 
Land of Poco Tiempo . . C. F. Lummis 

Land of To-morrow (Alaska) 
Land of Enchantment from Pike's Peak to the 

Pacific Lillian Whiting 

Mountains of California John Muir 

Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks 

Howard Palmer 
My First Summer in the Sierras John Muir 

Native Races H. H. Bancroft 

Navajo and His Blankets . U. S. Hollister 

Navajo Weavers . . . Washington Matthews 
Nevada, Colorado, and Wyoming . H. H. Bancroft 
Official Manual of Motor Car Camping 

A. L. Westgard 
On the Great American Plateau . T. M. Prudden 



REFERENCE BOOKS 199 

Our National Parks ...... John Muir 

Rambles Overland A. Gunnison 

Rocky Mountain Flowers Clements & Clements 

Romance of the Colorado River . . Dillenbaugh 
Romantic California .... E. C. PeixoUo 
Silent Places (Alaska) .... S. Ed. White 
Some Strange Corners of Our Country 

Chas. F. Lummis 

SpeU of the Rockies E.A.Mills 

Steep Trails John Muir 

Summer Tour of Southern California . S. W. Long 
Tales of a Pathfinder . . . . A. L. Westgard 
Ten Thousand Miles with a Dog Sled 

Hudson Stuck, D.D. 
The Adventures of a Nature Guide Enos A. Mills 
The Arapaho Sun Dance . . G. A. Dorsey 

The Book of National Parks . Robert Sterling Yard 
The Conquest of Mt. McKinley . Belmore Browne 
The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde Nordenskiold 

The Desert John C. Van Dyke 

The Grand Canyon of The Colorado 

John C. Van Dyke 
The Ice Age in North America . . G. F. Wright 
The Land of Little Rain .... Mary Austin 
The Mountain That Was God . John H. Williams 
The Mountains of Oregon .... IF. G. Steel 
The Seven Wonders of the New World J. K. Peck 
The Snake Dance of the Moqui . . J. G. Bourke 
The Spell of the Yukon . . . Robert W. Service 
The Winning of the Far West . . . McElroy 



200 REFERENCE BOOKS 

The Yellowstone National Park Historical and 

Descriptive Chittenden 

The Yosemite Valley, The Discovery of 

L. H. Bunnell 

Trees of California . Jepson 

Trees of the Northern United States. A. C. Apgar 

Two Great Canyons C. C. Cole 

Western Bird Guide . . . Margaret Armstrong 
Western Wild Flowers Margaret Armstrong 

With Canoe and Saddle . . . Theo. Winthrop 
Wonders of the Colorado Desert . G. W. James 
Wonders of the Yellowstone . . J. Richardson 
Zuni Folk Tales . . . Frank Harvey Cushing 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Absoroka Range . 


53 


Cascades . 


87 


Acoma, Pueblo of 


. 183 


Casa Grande Nat 




Alaska. 


61 


Mon. . . . 


194 


Alcatras 


. 126 


Cave of the Winds 




Albuquerque . 


. 175 


Colo. 


15 


Apacha Reservation 


. 185 


Chelan, Lake . 


80 


Apache'Trail . 


. 191 


Cheyenne Mountair 




Ashland, Ore. . 


67 


Road 


11 


Appeal to Tourists 


194 


Cliff Dwellings 


16 


Astoria 


85 


Coast Range . 


122 






Cochiti, Pueblo of 


181 


Bandelier Nat. Mon. 


186 


Coeur d' Alene, Lake 


41 


Banff, Alberta 


29 


Colorado Desert . 


156 


Belton .... 


. 37 


Colorado Nat. Mon. . 


14 


Belvedere . 


132 


Colorado Springs . 


10 


Berkeley . 


134 


Columbia River . 


84 


Beverley Hills 


145 


Columbia River Trip . 


80 


Bitter Root Valley 


40 


Columbia River High- 


- 


Blackfeet Glacier . 


37 


way 


88 






Coronado Beach . 


153 


California State Red 


- 


Crater Lake Nat. Pari 


: 67 


wood Park . 


138 


Cripple Creek. 


13 


Canadian Rockies 


29 


Denver . . . . 


3 


Carmel-by-the-Sea 


141 






Childs Glacier . 


62 


Devil's Half Acre . . 


99 


Canyon of the Arkan 


- 


Devil's Tower Nat 


, 


sas .... 


19 


Mon 


39 


Canyon Diablo 


177 


Diablo, Mount . . 


133 


Capulin Mountair 


1 


Dinosaur Nat. Mon. . 


25 


Nat. Mon. . . 


186 


DonnerLake . 


105 


Carpentaria 


144 


Durango . . . . 


5 



203 



204 



INDEX 



El Morro Nat. Mon. . 
Estes Park ... 

Feather River Canyon 
Flathead Reservation 
Fresno. 



Gallup. 

Garden of the Gods 

Gen. Grant Nat. Park 

Glacier. 

Glacier Nat. Park 

Golden Gate . 

Golden Gate Park 

Grand Canyon Nat 

Park. . . . 
Grand Coulee . 
Grand Teton . 
Gran Quivira Nat 

Mon. . . . 



Hamilton, Mount 
Hetch Hetchy Valley 
High Drive, Colo. 
Hood, Mount . 
Holbrook . 
Hopiland . 
Hot Springs Valley 

Jackson Lake . 
John Muir Trail 

Kearsarge Pass 
Kern Valley . 
Kings River Canyon 
Klamath Falls 

Laggan , . 
Laguna, Pueblo of 
Lake Louise . 



189 
5 

97 

41 

106 

187 
14 

116 
32 
36 

124 

126 

163 

82 
54 

190 

137 

112 

12 

91 

176 

176 

99 

53 
121 

121 

122 

117 

68 

30 

183 

30 



Lassen Volcanic Nat. 

Park. . 
Leland Stanford Uni 

versity . 
Lewis and Clark Cav 

em Nat. Mon. . 
Lick Observatory . 
Lodi and the Cala 

veras Big Trees 
Loma, Point 
Los Angeles 
Lowe, Mount. 
Lund, Utah 



Nat 



Cali 



Castle 



Manitou . 
Medford, Ore. 
Merced 
Mesa Verde 

Park. . 
Missions, The 

fornia 
Missoula . 
Monterey . 
Montezuma 

Nat. Mon. . 
Mount McKinley 
Mount Olympus Nat 

Mon. . . 
Mount Manitou 
Mount Moran 
Mount Rainier Nat 

Park. . . 
Mount Washburn 
Mount Whitney 
Muir Woods, Nat 

Mon. 
Murphys . 

Natural Bridges Nat 
Mon. 



INDEX 



205 



Navajo Nat. Mon. 
Navajo Reservation 
New Mexico . 



Oakland , 
Ocean Beach . 
Ogden . 
Oregon Caves 
Mon. . . 



Nat. 



24 
179 
174 

134 

128 

18 

92 



Pacific Grove . 


140 


Palo Alto .... 


135 


Panama Pacific Int. 




Expo 


128 


Painted Desert 


169 


Papago Saguaro Nat. 




Mon 


192 


Pasadena .... 


149 


Paso Robles Hot 




Springs .... 


141 


Pend d'Orielle Lake . 


41 


Petrified Forest Nat. 




Mon 


170 


Pinnacles Nat. Mon. . 


139 


Phoenix .... 


190 


Pikes Peak 


10 


Portland .... 


89 


Presidio .... 


125 


Puget Sound . . . 


59 


Rainbow Bridge Nat. 




Mon 


181 


Ravalli 


41 


Riverside .... 


151 


Rocky Mountain Nat. 




Park 


6 


Roosevelt Dam . 


190 


Roosevelt Nat. Park, 




Proposed Site . 


116 



Sacramento . . . 102 
Sacramento Valley . 122 
Salt Lake City . . 17 
Salt Lake .... 18 
Sahara, Great Ameri- 
can 154 

San Diego . ... 152 

San Francisco. . 124 

San Francisco Bay . 125 

San Luis Obispo . . 142 

San Mateo ... 135 

San Pedro .... 145 

San Joaquin Valley . 122 

San Jose .... 136 

Santa Ana Valley , . 152 

Santa Barbara , . 144 

Santa Catalina . . 146 

Santa Clara ... 136 

Santa Clara Valley . 136 

Santa Cruz . . . 137 

Santa Fe .... 175 

Santa Monica. . . 145 

Santa Rosa . . . 134 

Sausalito .... 124 

Seattle 72 

Sequoia Nat. Park , 113 

Shasta, Mount . . 95 

Sicamous .... 32 

Sierra Nevada Range . 122 

Sitka Nat. Mon. . . 65 
Shoshone Cavern Nat. 

Mon 43 

Sonoma .... 133 
Spokane .... 42 
Suggestions for Moun- 
tain Climbing . . 77 

Tacoma .... 73 

Tamalpais, Mount . 129 

Tahoe, Lake . . . 100 



206 



INDEX 



Tehipite Canyon . 


118 


Walnut Canyon Nat. 




Teton Range . . . 


53 


Mon 


193 


Tonto Nat. Mon. 


191 


Wawona and the Mar- 




Trail of the Stoncy 




iposa Big Trees 


111 


Indian .... 


33 


Whitney, Mount . 


115 


Tucson .... 


192 


Willamette River . 


85 


Tuolumne Canyon 


113 


Willapa Harbour. 


85 






Williams .... 


164 


University of Califor- 
nia 


134 


Wilson, Mount 
Wolpi and Orabi . 

Yellowstone Nat. 


151 
176 


Valley of the Ten 




Park 


43 


Peaks .... 


31 


Yosemite Nat. Park . 


106 


Ventura .... 


143 






Victoria Glacier . 


30 


Zuni 


187 


Visalia 


119 


Zion Nat. Park . , 


23 




THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS 
GARDEN CITY, N. Y. 



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